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France : Nice - October 2008

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October is an idyllic month on the Cote d’Azur. The days are balmy, the air is still, and the sea is warm and pleasantly calm. Most importantly, the crowds have dropped off, so you’ll have the city’s most select spots (almost) to yourself. Kathryn Tomasetti enjoys the silence

Getting around

Nice Côte d’Azur Airport is 7km west of the city centre.

Bus: The No.99 departs for Gare Routière, the central bus station just outside the old town, every 20 minutes. Tickets cost €4 and the journey takes about 30 minutes.
Taxi: The journey from the airport to the city centre takes 20 minutes and costs around €30.
Tourist information: The main office is at 5 Promenade des Anglais (tel. , nicetourisme.biz).

VIEUX-NICE

Sleep soundly – The back streets of Nice’s original neighbourhood are among the most colourful and authentic on the French Riviera. In summer it’s heaving, but autumn finds the old town’s buzz slightly muted but still welcoming.

Must eat – Stop at Fenocchio (2 Place Rossetti, tel. ) for one last ice cream before their four-month winter closure (from November). The cooler evenings see locals flock to La Merenda (4 Rue Raoul Bosio, no reservations) for the restaurant’s take on the classic Niçois beef stew, daube.

Dance the night away – Sip cocktails under the stars at one of La Trappa’s (2 Rue Jules Gilly) outdoor tables, or stake out a spot on the tiny indoor dancefloor.

Shop til you drop – Immerse yourself in feminine fashion at Une Cabane sur la Plage (37 Rue Droite), all decadent dresses and pastel pea coats. Art fiends can head down the street to pick up one of Atelier Phobé’s (13 Rue Droite) unique, Modigliani-esque paintings.

PLACE GARIBALDI & THE PORT

Admire the lights, trees and fountains covering the recently renovated Place Garibaldi. Or wander down to the port where traditional wooden fishing boats outnumber the glitzy yachts

Culture vultures – The Acropolis Cinémathèque (3 Esplanade Kennedy) puts on a great programme of original language films, with cult selections that span most of the 20th century.

Must eat – Locals head to friendly Pappagallo (18 Rue François Guisol, tel. ), which dishes up giant 40cm pizzas and choice steaks. Seafood lovers should try out the newly expanded Café de Turin (5 Place Garibaldi, tel. ) for king crab and sea urchins.

BOULEVARDS VICTOR HUGO & DUBOUCHAGE

Sweeping from east to west, these long tree-lined boulevards are Nice’s most prestigious avenues.

Sleep soundly – Breakfast in the botanical garden at the ultra-French Villa Victoria.

Culture vultures – Visit the free Théâtre de la Photographie et de l’Image (27 Boulevard Dubouchage) to see contemporary photography shows and a permanent collection of ‘20s black and white pictures from Nice.

Must drink – As the name suggests, the pleasant terrace at Aux Deux Palmiers’ (15 Boulevard Victor Hugo) is shaded by two palm trees.

THE ZONE PIETONNE

The pedestrianised expanse around Place Masséna is an excellent spot to shop, dine or just watch the world go by.

Sleep soundly – Whether you’re after organic breakfasts, weekend DJ sets or a rooftop pool, Hi-Hôtel is the city’s edgiest option. Centrally located off Place Masséna, the art deco Albert 1er is furnished in classic Provençal style.

Must eat – Consistently good, Kei’s Passion (22 Rue de France, tel. ) does contemporary Franco- Japanese cuisine, like red tomato gazpacho served with a verdant green basil and almond sorbet, or prawns with Palma ham and braised baby artichokes. Too busy to linger over lunch? Join the queue at Multari (8 Boulevard Jean Jaurès) – their quiches, tiny pizzas and club sandwiches are all outstanding.

Must drink – People-watch with an aperitif or a café crème on the terrace of Liber’Tea (9 Rue de la Liberté).

Shop til you drop – Wander down Rue de France and its boutique-packed side streets. Be sure not to miss Nice’s homegrown Façonnable (7 Rue Paradis), which is particularly popular for menswear

Compiled by Kathryn Tomasetti