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France : Strasbourg - October 2008

Country Code: Dial for France

Perched on the borders of France, Switzerland and Germany, Strasbourg fuses the fi ne cuisine of the fi rst, the chocolate-box prettiness of the second and the rustic, beam-laden architecture of the third. And as Anthea Gerrie fi nds, it remains lively throughout autumn – this month it hosts the world music festival, Les Nuits Européenes (11-18 October)

Getting around

Strasbourg International

Bus: A bus to Baggersee Station, which has an A-line tram connection to the city centre, leaves every 20 minutes. It takes about 30 minutes and costs €5,10.
Train: Trains leave Entzheim Station every 30 minutes from 5.30am to 8.30pm. The journey to the centre takes 12 minutes and costs €2,10.
Taxi: A taxi from the airport to the city centre costs around €35 and takes about 20 minutes.
Tourist information: The central tourist office is at 17 Place de la Cathédrale (tel. , otstrasbourg.fr)

GRAND ILE

Every visit to Strasbourg starts here, where huge squares give way to quaint narrow streets and shoppers can find every kind of retail therapy, from major department stores to speciality boutiques

Sleep soundly – Citadines Apart’hotel Strasbourg Kleber offers well-situated self-catering accommodation within easy walking distance of the cathedral and shops.

Culture vultures – A visit to the huge, pink sandstone Cathédrale de Notre Dame (Place de la Cathédrale) is de rigeur, particularly for the elaborate carvings around the exterior doors and the astronomical clock inside.

Must eat – Le Panier du Marché (15 Rue Sainte-Barbe, tel. ) is a centrally situated backstreet brasserie whose modest looks belie its excellent cuisine. However, weekenders will miss out, as it’s only open weekdays.

Must drink – The brand new Dubliners bar (7 Rue du Vieux Marché aux Poissons) has live music most nights, and good food too.

Shop til you drop – Bastian (22-24 Place de la Cathédrale) is the place for the extravagant tureens Alsace is famous for – they come disguised as cabbages, animal heads, even turkeys!

PETITE FRANCE

This pretty island in the middle of the city is a delightful place to stroll, eat, shop and sip.

Must eat – Umami (8 Rue des Dentelles, tel.) presents the most unlikely fusion of hearty Alsace cuisine with delicate Japanese flavours. Maison des Tanneurs (42 Rue du Bainaux- Plantes, tel. ) is a ravishingly pretty restaurant serving up riverside views alongside classic local dishes like duck terrine with hazelnuts.

Shop til you drop – Un Noël en Alsace (10 Rue des Dentelles) is an all-year-round Christmas shop perfect for picking up a new tree decoration or three ahead of time.

KRUTENAU

This student district has a charming, bohemian ambience quite different from that of the chocolate-box old city and futuristic Quartier Européen.

Must eat – Le Plum’Art (7-9 Rue du Renard Prêchant, tel. ) offers welcome relief from meatdominated Alsace cuisine, with food from a different French region every week. » Dance the night away Café des Anges (42 Rue Krutenau) is a two-tier experience – salsa beats and a large dance floor on one level, more chilled stuff in the bar downstairs.

THE RIGHT BANK

Many of the best museums are found on the far side of the River Ill.

Culture vultures – Located in the 19th-century Villa Greiner, not far from the Place de la République, the Tomi Ungerer Museum (2 Avenue de la Marseillaise) houses a remarkable collection of 8,000 drawings, paintings, posters and prints, along with 6,000 toys and games from the private collection of Ungerer, a Strasbourg-born artist famous for both his children’s illustrations and political cartoons.

Must eat – Fleur de Sel (22 Quai des Bateliers, tel. ) offers brasserie-style dining at a good price

Compiled by Anthea Gerrie