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Austria : Vienna - October 2008

Country Code: Dial for Austria

Autumn is a good time to visit Vienna – October’s mild weather and crisp light throw the city’s beauty into sharp relief and the cultural calendar’s packed, with the Viennese Film Festival from 17-29 October and the Wien Modern festival of contemporary music from the 26th. Thomas Hochwarter shows us round

Getting around

Vienna International Airport

Bus: A bus will take you to the city centre in 20 minutes, leaving every 30 minutes, with a return fare of €11.
Train: The City Airport Train (CAT) takes 16 minutes to reach the centre and leaves every 30 minutes. Return tickets cost €16. The regular municipal railway SBahn goes every 30 minutes and takes 24 minutes to reach the city centre. Single tickets cost €3.
Taxi: A trip to the city from the airport costs a standard fee of €31.
Tourist information: Vienna Tourist Office is at 38 Untere Augartenstraße and 1 Albertinaplatz (555, www.wien.info).

1ST DISTRICT

The heart of the city usually leaves first-time visitors breathless.

Sleep soundly – The city’s not short of five-star hotels, but the Hotel Imperial is the only one that offers a personal butler service. Charlie Chaplin once said it was the most beautiful hotel he had ever seen – and you’ll probably agree. The friendly Hotel Zur Wiener Staatsoper (11 Krugerstrasse , tel. , zurwienerstaatsoper.at, rooms from €80) is, as the name suggests, just around the corner from the State Opera.

Culture vultures – The Albertina (1 Albertinaplatz) is currently staging a special exhibition of Van Gogh’s work which features 170 pieces and focuses on his final years in Paris and Arles.

Must eat – The Drei Husaren (4 Weihburggasse, tel. ) oozes aristocratic charm and does traditional Austrian food. Try the oxtail soup with minced meat strudel and root vegetables, or the braised veal knuckle in mustard sauce with tarragon tagliatelle. Situated in the heart of Burggarten park, the Palmenhaus (1 Burggarten, tel. ) is a little more modestly priced, and good for late breakfasts (go for carpe diem – yoghurt with pineapple and mint) or a snack in between museum visits.

Must drink – Founded in 1939, the Café Hawelka (6 Dorotheergasse) has always been the favourite meeting point for the city’s writers, artists and actors. Its founder Leopold Hawelka, now aged 97, still spends his days in the café, which is run by his son Günther.

7TH DISTRICT

Popular with artists and students, Vienna’s 7th district Neubau is home to Mariahilferstrasse, one of Europe’s biggest shopping streets, the renowned Volkstheater theatre and some excellent second-hand shops.

Sleep soundly – Named after the former Austrian-Hungarian empress, the Maria Theresia hotel sits prettily in the trendy Spittelberg area. Still a well-kept secret, the hotel’s modern and stylish inside, and service is warm and friendly.

Culture vultures – In October, the Westlicht gallery (40 Westbahnstrasse) is showing a fascinating collection of photographs by Franz Goess, Paris Match’s Prague correspondent, which document the 1968 uprising.

Must eat – The Gastwirtschaft Schilling (103 Burggasse, tel. ) serves traditional Viennese cuisine in healthy portions. It’s very reasonable, so you’ll be free to enjoy the restaurant’s wine list which features some really excellent vintages.

13TH DISTRICT

Vienna’s 13th district Hietzing is situated to the west of the city. Bordering the extensive Wienerwald woods, it’s good for hiking. It’s also one of the most expensive areas to live in the city. Take a stroll though the district’s quiet roads, lined with beautiful villas and mansions.

Sleep soundly – Built in 1907 as a guest house for the Habsburg family, Parkhotel Schoenbrunn is a stone’s throw from the palace and the city’s zoo. Its classic ballroom, one of the few still in existence, still holds traditional balls.

Culture vultures – The 300-year-old Schoenbrunn Palace (1 Schlossallee) has been one of the city’s major tourist attractions since the 19th century. Built by Emperor Leopold I, the palace is one of the finest examples of Habsburg grandeur in Europe, while the Tiergarten, the world’s oldest existing zoo, stands in the grounds.

Must eat – The name Plachutta (1 Auhofstrasse, tel. ) rings a bell with every Austrian child. The restaurant’s renowned for it’s tafelspitz (beef rump boiled with root vegetables) but it does a good zwiebelrostbraten, too (rump steak with deep fried onions).

Compiled by Thomas Hochwarter