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Spain : Barcelona - November 2008

Country Code: Dial for Spain

Winter may be approaching, but the pace of life in the Catalan capital doesn’t slacken. The city is hosting the 40th Barcelona International Jazz Festival (1–29 November) in some of its most venerable venues, and All Saints Day (1 November) is a signal to start roasting chestnuts and savouring sweet Muscatel. Judy Thomson attempts to keep up

Getting around

El Prat

Bus: The nearest airport is El Prat Airport, about 12km from the city.

LA RIBERA

Part of the old town bordering the chic Born area, La Ribera is full of its own hidden charms and undiscovered corners

Sleep soundly – Tucked down a narrow alley, Hotel Boria-BCN offers contemporary design and slick service within the old stone walls of an 18thcentury palace. In a quiet street near the Parc Ciutadella, Catalonia Princesa has all mod cons at a reasonable price.

Culture vultures – One of the main venues for the jazz festival is modernista architect Domènech i Montaner’s dazzling Palau de la Música Catalana (4-6 Carrer del Palau de la Música). Catch John McLaughlin and Chick Corea (18 November), Katie Melua (26 November) or any number of classical concerts throughout the month.

Must eat – Wind down narrow streets from the Palau to the 21st-century designer market Santa Caterina and join diners at trendy but tasty Cuines Santa Caterina (Avinguda de Francesc Cambó, tel. ). Or go alternative at tiny Mescladís (5 Plaça Sant Pere, tel. ), which does delicious home-style cooking from around the world.

Must drink – Even if you don’t attend a concert, at least go for a glass of cava (Spain’s answer to champagne) in the effervescent Palau de la Música bar and soak up its ceramic and stainedglass interior.

Shop til you drop – Refresh your winter wardrobe with pieces by young Catalan designer Miriam Ponsa, now in her own flagship boutique (14 Carrer de la Princesa).

EIXAMPLE ESQUERRA

This district is a fascinating mixture of the elegance of Rambla Catalunya’s high fashion and architecture with more workmanlike neighbourhoods.

Sleep soundly – Brainchild of two Chicago sisters, Hostel Somnio is clean-cut yet stylish, and excellent value given its location.

Must eat – The designer tapas at Cata 1.81 (181 Carrer de València, tel. ) are exquisitely prepared. Meat eaters shouldn’t miss the authentic Argentinean beef, ambience and inimitable tinto (red wine and soda) at Tafí (68 Carrer de Còrsega, tel. ).

Must drink – Pop into the Hotel Alexander (251 Carrer de Mallorca) for a cocktail at 7pm any Saturday during the Jazz Festival and you’ll get live music thrown in.

Dance the night away – Former theatre Luz de Gas (245 Carrer de Muntaner) has live music nightly from 11.30pm – anything from blues and jazz to 70s and 80s classics. The entry charge of €18 covers your first drink.

Shop til you drop – Amble down the pedestrian boulevard of Rambla Catalunya, where you’ll find everything from designer shoes to doorknobs, kids’ clothes to trendy interiors. Try Pro Mod (80 Rambla Catalunya) for cosy knitwear in muted neutrals, and high-street staple Zara (67 Rambla Catalunya) for well made basics.

LA RAMBLA

The promenade leading from Plaça Catalunya to the sea passes flower stalls, caged birds and human statues

Culture vultures – Drop in to the Palau de la Virreina (99 La Rambla), the city’s cultural information centre, which this month stages a temporary exhibition of Catalan photographer Joan Fontcuberta’s work (from 6 November).

Must eat – Feast your eyes on what the mushroom harvest has brought in at the city’s largest food market, La Boqueria (89 La Rambla, tel. ), then pull up a stool at one of the bars and watch them being grilled with garlic and parsley.

Dance the night away – Way after midnight, the crowd will drift towards Club Fellini (27 La Rambla).

Compiled by Judy Thomson