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Denmark : Copenhagen - November 2008

Country Code: Dial for Denmark

As the light declines and the cold sets in, Danes love nothing more than to snuggle up by the fireplace in a café for a bit of hygge (a sense of cosiness, comfort, warmth and wellbeing). Connie Mikkelsen enjoys the intimate side of one of northern Europe’s most beautiful cities

Getting around

Copenhagen Airport

Train: The journey from the airport costs €4/DKK 30. Trains stop at all the major urban stations, taking around 13 minutes to reach the city centre. The metro takes 19 minutes to reach the city centre and stops at Nørreport too. Tickets are also €4/DKK 30.
Taxi: A trip into the centre costs around €27/DKK 200 and takes 20 minutes.
Tourist information: The main office can be found opposite Tivoli Gardens (tel. , visitcopenhagen.com).

CENTRE

Copenhagen’s compact city centre is a charming affair dotted with beautiful 19th-century buildings.

Culture vultures – Bodies, the international exhibition of preserved human beings, is at the HC Andersens Palace (22 HC Andersens Boulevard) until 30 December, while a show on Danish anti-Nazi cartoons is held at the Workers Museum (22 Rømersgade) until 30 December.

Must eat – Copenhagen institution Nyhavns Faergekro (5 Nyhavn, tel. ) is steeped in history – it was once a shipping office that sold tickets for the Titanic. Now a justifiably popular lunch restaurant, it’s largely known for its fantastic herring buffets. Choose from 10 types of herring (mustardmarinated, smoked, fried, curried and creamed, to name but a few) followed by one of its smørrebrød (Danish open sandwiches) topped with smoked salmon, smoked eel, really good rare beef or heaped prawns and hollandaise, washed down with plenty of aquavit.

Must drink – The hotel bar at The Nimb (5 Bernstorffsgade) is set in what was a huge ballroom, retaining some of the hall’s high-ceilinged grandeur while creating a warm, cosy space. Pull one of the curved armchairs up to the big open fire and let the hours slip away. Or you could head downstairs to the Vinotek, a well-stocked cellar that serves a long list of excellent wines by the glass.

SLOTSHOLMEN

This is where it all started, the tiny island where the city was founded in the 12th century. Today Slotsholmen is home to stately, bold contemporary architecture.

Sleep soundly – The minimalist CPH Living is a floating hotel anchored across the canal from Slotsholmen.

Culture vultures – Copenhagen’s founding fortress has given way to the grand Parliament, or Folketinget (Christiansborg Slot). The original dragontail spire of the Børsen (The Old Stock Exchange) is one of the city’s landmarks, and architect Daniel Libeskind has designed the Danish Jewish Museum nearby (6 Proviantpassagen).

FREDERIKSBERG

An elegant, leafy area to the west of the centre with fierce local pride, Frederiksberg is an independent city, although geographically part of Copenhagen.

Sleep soundly – The Avenue Hotel is excellent value for money.

Culture vultures – The elephants of Copenhagen Zoo (32 Roskilde Vej) live in probably the most beautiful enclosure in the world. It was designed by top architectural firm Foster and Partners and opened this summer. Find out how Denmark’s most famous brew is made at the Carlsberg Museum (1 Valby Langgade) and Carlsberg Visitors Centre & Jacobsen Brewhouse (11 Gamle Carlsberg Vej).

Must eat – Tuck into brunch at the zoo’s Café K (32 Roskilde Vej, tel. ) as you watch camels pass by. Warm up with a spicy chilli con carne at the cosy Den Blå Hund (The Blue Dog, 28 Godthåbsvej, tel. ).

Shop til you drop – Head to Kiwi & Mango (5 Værnedamsvej) and the other stores lining Værnedamsvej for topnotch deli shopping.

Compiled by Connie Mikkelsen