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Switzerland : Geneva - November 2008

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Geneva is often referred to as ‘Calvin’s city’ and this month sees the launch of the Calvin Jubilee, celebrations commemorating the 500th anniversary of Calvin’s birth. Now is the ideal time to explore the Protestant reformer’s life, before the hordes arrive in 2009. Lou McMullen gives us a preview

Getting around

Geneva Cointrin International Airport

Bus: If staying on the left bank, the No 10 will get you to Cornavin Station in 10 minutes and across the river in about 15 minutes
Train: The train from the airport to the city centre takes six minutes. A one-hour Tout Genève pass costs €1,90/CHF 3, which you can also use on buses.
Taxi: Taxis cost €19-25/CHF 30-40 and take about 15 minutes to the centre.
Tourist information: 18 Rue du Mont-Blanc (, www.genevetourism.ch).

VIEILLE VILLE

The old town is home to many of the key sites associated with the Reformation and will be central to the launch of the jubilee on Reformation Day (2 November).

Sleep soundly – For a deluxe five-star with soul, check in to the Hôtel Les Armures. Dating from the 17th century and carved into the stone walls at the site of the city’s armoury, this is an historical treat.

Culture vultures – Start at the Cathédrale Saint-Pierre (Cour Saint- Pierre) where Jean Calvin preached. Climb up the north tower for a spectacular panoramic view. Pop into the gothic chapel, the Auditoire Calvin (Place de la Taconnerie), where reformers gathered in the 16th century. Finally, head to the Reformation Museum (4 Rue de Cloitre) for a definitive guide to the events that happened around it.

Must drink – L’Adipsie (3 Grand Rue) is the perfect place for sipping cocktails before heading off on a night out.

PLACE MOLARD

In the heart of Geneva’s left bank, at the foot of the old town, this is the bustling shopping and business district.

Culture vultures – Check out the Tour de Molard in the corner of the square. This restored tower is decorated with painted friezes, coats of arms and a tablet sculpted to the glory of “Geneva, City of Refuge”.

Must eat – The Café du Centre (5 Place du Molard, tel. ) is a renowned French restaurant specialising in fish dishes and a crowded local institution. More upmarket, but well worth splashing out on, is the excellent Brasserie Lipp (8 Rue de la Confédération, tel. ). Make sure you book early, though.

Shop til you drop – A short walk away is the Confédération Centre (8 Rue de la Conféderation), which houses over 50 shops and restaurants plus a cinema.

PLAINPALAIS

This up and coming district is dominated by the huge open square, the Plaine des Plainpalais, which regularly hosts markets, circuses and funfairs.

Sleep soundly – The Hôtel Le Grenil is basic but comfortable.

Culture vultures – Take a walk through the Parc des Bastion (1 Promenade des Bastions) and see the massive, austere Reformation Wall, covered with carvings of key figures and events from 450 years of Protestant history. Then head over to vist the grave of Jean Calvin at the Cimetière de Plainpalais (Rue des Rois).

Must eat – Take a break from haggling at the markets and snack at one of the cafés lining the square and its side streets. For thirst-quenching Breton cider and divine pancakes, go for the Jardin Des Crêpes (25 Avenue de Mail, tel. ). For a choice of over 25 different tapas dishes, try Café Cuba (1 Place du Cirque, tel. ), which also serves wonderful mojitos and Havana cigars.

CAROUGE

Designed by the Dukes of Savoy as a Catholic alternative to the Protestant power of Calvin’s Geneva, Carouge’s architecture and ambience have a Mediterranean feel.

Must eat – Every community has its own tavern and the rustic Auberge Communal De Carouge (39 Rue Ancienne, tel. ) is a winner, offering traditional French dishes and an extensive wine list. Warm up at L’Olivier de Provence (13 Rue Jacques-Daphin, tel. ), which serves tasty and colourful Mediterranean food.

Must drink – Pull up a pew at Aigle d’Or (13 Rue de la Filature).

Dance the night away – The best live music venue in Geneva is the Chat Noir (13 Rue Vautier) cellar bar. Prices are reasonable and it’s open into the small hours.

Compiled by McMullen