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Sweden : Gothenburg - November 2008

Country Code: Dial for Sweden

The self-proclaimed ‘front side of Sweden’, Gothenburg is known for its friendly locals, great restaurants and a nightlife that’s steamy even in November. From 14 November, check out the oldfashioned Christmas market at Liseberg, beautifully lit by fi ve million lights. Victoria Larsson gets in the holiday spirit

Getting around

Landvetter

Bus: Flygbussarna airport coaches stop at Nils Ericson Terminalen (the main bus station), Kungsportsplatsen (for the old town), Park Avenue (on Avenyn) and Korsvägen. A return ticket costs €15/SEK 140 and takes 30 minutes, with departures every 20 minutes during peak times.
Taxi: Taxis offer a fixed price for the 30-minute journey into town (about €36/SEK 338).
Tourist information: The main tourist office is located at 2 Kungsportsplatsen (2500, goteborg.com).

AVENYN

Avenyn is what locals call their main artery, Kungsportsavenyn. There really is little need to stray off this boulevard.

Sleep soundly – The four-star Elite Park Avenue Hotel is bright and subtly luxurious, featuring a spa and wellness centre.

Culture vultures – Visit Göteborgs Konsthall (Götaplatsen) for the History Acts exhibition, where 11 international artists present work dealing with the complicated relationship between the past and the present.

Must eat – Brasserie Lipp (8 Kungsportsavenyn, 5830) has been serving French cuisine for over 20 years. Joe Farelli (12 Kungsportsavenyn, 5826), a laid-back Italian-American 50s-style diner, is great for lunch, brunch or an afternoon snack.

Must drink – They make a mean cocktail at the Peacock Dinner Club (21 Kungsportsavenyn)

Dance the night away – New hot spot Push (9 Kungsportsavenyn) has a cosmopolitan feel and is full of party animals every night.

Shop til you drop – Head to Selected Inspiration (43 Kungsportsavenyn) for ideas on how to glam up your home. Nilson (16 Kungsportsavenyn) is good for fashionable, high-quality shoes.

MAJORNA

Quieter and less touristy than Avenyn, this neighbourhood has plenty of green spaces and is home to some of the city’s distinctive timber houses, known as landshövdingehus.

Sleep soundly – Overlooking the harbour, inside an old brick building that was once a brewery, Novotel is a great choice.

Must eat – One of Sweden’s best-loved seafood restaurants, Sjömagasinet (5 Adolf Edelsvärdsgata, tel. ) is still holding on to its Michelin star. Try the carpaccio of scallop, crayfish and oysters served with oyster foam, artichoke, prawns and beetroot, followed by the poached halibut with thyme, white wine sauce and trufflefilled mini dumplings. Zenith Kafé (11 Allmänna vägen, 5660) is housed in one of those beautiful landshövdinge houses and does good sandwiches and coffee.

Must drink – Mingle with the locals at friendly, no-frills Majornas Krog (72 Karl Johansgatan).

Shop til you drop – If you’re into antiques and collectibles, you’ll find this area to be a goldmine. Sagobjörnen (40 Bangatan) buys, sells and trades antiquarian books, records and toys.

EVENEMANGSSTRÅKET

Many of the city’s biggest attractions – Liseberg, Universum, Lorensbergsteatren, Ullevi and Världskultursmuseet – are lined up almost side by side in this modern and central part of town.

Sleep soundly – Spread out on floor after sky-reaching floor, Hotel Gothia Towers is a huge high-rise. It has several top notch bars and restaurants, but still provides personable service.

Culture vultures – Amusement park Liseberg (the largest in Scandinavia) is the number one attraction in town. Situated on the water, the park has rides for everyone, from small children to hardcore daredevils. The Christmas market begins on 14 November and continues until Christmas Eve. Come here to sample traditional Swedish holiday food, shop for gifts at the crafts market and visit Santa’s factory.

Must eat – At ground level in the right tower of the Gothia, superb Incontro (24 Mässans väg, tel. ) serves modern Italian food. Housed inside the architecturally stunning Världskulturmuseet (Museum of World Culture), Tabla (54 Södra Vägen, 2723) is just as edgy and eclectic as the museum.

Must drink – Take a seat at Heaven 23 (24 Mässans gata), on the 23rd floor of Gothia Towers. You’ll be able to see for miles and miles.

Compiled by Victoria Larsson