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Portugal : Lisbon - November 2008

Country Code: Dial 1 for Portugal

The first tasting of the year’s wine traditionally takes place on São Martinho’s Day (11 November), accompanied by hot chestnuts. Although autumn has kicked in, bright sunshine often lures people out onto Lisbon’s pavement cafés. This month also sees the Musidanças festival, celebrating the best of Portuguese-speaking cultures. Matthew Hancock drinks it all in

Getting around

Lisbon Airport

Bus: The Aerobus leaves every 20 minutes from 7.40am to 11pm and goes to the city centre, finishing at Cais do Sodré. Tickets cost €3 and can be bought onboard.
Taxi: It’s about a 20 minute taxi ride to the city centre. The fare costs approximately €15, with an extra charge for luggage in the boot. Prices increase by 20% at night and on weekends and bank holidays.
Tourist information: The Lisboa Welcome Centre is located at Praça do Comércio, on the corner of Rua do Arsenal (tel. , www.atl-turismolisboa.pt).

CHIADO

Chic Chiado is Lisbon’s fashionable shopping district, much of it rebuilt in traditional style after a fire in the 80s.

Sleep soundly – Stay at the boutiquey Bairro Alto Hotel set in a stylishly converted mansion.

Culture vultures – Check out the best in contemporary art at the Museu do Chiado (4 Rua Serpa Pinto), which includes superb Rodin sculptures.

Must eat – The ingredients of L’Entrecôte’s (117 Rua do Alecrim, tel. ) sublime steak sauces are a closely guarded secret.

Must drink – Look no further than A Brasileira (120 Rua Garrett), Lisbon’s most famous café, for a great place to enjoy an evening drink.

Shop til you drop – The swish Armazéns do Chiado shopping centre (2 Rua do Carmo) houses six floors of designer clothing, health products and sporting goods.

PARQUE EDUARDO VII

Lisbon’s main park is small but beautifully maintained and boasts superb views over the capital.

Sleep soundly – Just south of the park, Hotel Dom Carlos Park has modern rooms and a neat bar with plasma TV.

Culture vultures – The Museu Gulbenkian (Avenida de Berna) holds the dazzling art collection of oil magnate Calouste Gulbenkian, including everything from Egyptian statues to Lalique jewellery.

Must eat – Book a table at Eleven (Rua Marques da Fronteira, tel. ) to sample Lisbon’s first Michelin-starred cuisine, with views as dazzling as the modern Portuguese dishes. Try the baked veal with gnocchi, green peas and smoked ham.

Dance the night away – The Festival Musicanças is on throughout November at the Instituto Franco-Portugais (91 Avenida Luis Bivar), with sounds, food, dance and crafts from Portuguesespeaking communities.

Shop til you drop – The mega El Corte Inglês department store (31 Avenida António Augusto de Aguiar) includes a stellar gourmet deli section.

BAIRRO ALTO

In Lisbon’s bohemian quarter, traditional restaurants sit cheek by jowl with fashionable bars and clubs.

Sleep soundly – Down a quiet side street, Hotel Principe Real has fourstar comforts and some fine views.

Culture vultures – Convento do Carmo (Largo do Carmo) was halfdestroyed in the 1755 earthquake, but its handsome ruins now house a fine archaeological museum containing Colombian mummies.

Must eat – Bag a table at the bustling 1 de Maio (8 Rua da Atalaia, tel. ) for no-nonsense grilled meat and fish cooked to perfection.

Must drink – Hole up in Bar Ártis (95 Rua do Diário de Notícias) for jazzy sounds and fine wines.

Dance the night away – The longestablished Frágil (126 Rua da Atalaia) remains the place for the fashion set.

SINTRA

Just 40 minutes’ train ride away is this former retreat for Portuguese royals.

Sleep soundly – The characterful Pensão Residencial Sintra has huge rooms, an open fire and its own garden.

Culture vultures – The lavish Paláçio Nacional (Largo da Rainha Dona Amélia) shows how Portuguese monarchs lived in splendour.

Must eat – A roaring fire at Cantinho de São Pedro (18 Praça Dom Fernando II, tel. ) lures you inside for warming soups and grills.

Must drink – Casa Piriquita (1-5 Rua das Padaria) attracts locals with its cheesecakes, best washed down with strong coffee.

Compiled by Matthew Hancock