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Italy : Rome - November 2008

Country Code: Dial for Italy

November may be rainy outside, but life indoors is warm and lively, with galleries, coffee houses, restaurants and shops packed out. This month, make sure you get your tickets to the RomaEuropa Dance (1 November- 10 December) and MedFilm Festival (7-16 November) shows scattered all over town. Solveig Steinhardt tells us more

Getting around

Leonardo da Vinci Fiumicino Airport

Bus: The Terravision bus is cheap (about €15 for a return), but the timetable less frequent – there’s approximately one bus every two hours and the journey takes 45 minutes.
Train: The Leonardo Express runs every 30 minutes into Termini station. The journey takes 35 minutes and costs €11.
Taxi: The journey from the airport to the city centre takes 50 minutes. Expect to pay around €40-60.
Tourist information: The main office is at 11 Via Parigi (, www.romaturismo.com).

TRASTEVERE

In the daytime, this pretty medieval district is a quiet tangle of cobblestone alleys. Come evening, crowds of aperitivo-goers populate the streets.

Must eat – Romantic types love the cosy, bohemian atmosphere and creative cuisine of Cantina Paradiso (73 Via San Francesco a Ripa, tel. ). Il Boom (31 Via Fienaroli, tel. ) serves delicious hot mozzarella in lemon leaves in a 50s diner-like setting.

Must drink – Skip busy Piazza Trilussa and head to Stairs (43 Via della Scala), two floors of cocktails and aperitifs.

Shop til you drop – Stroll along Via del Moro for original gifts. Pick handmade sundials and globes at Polvere di Tempo (59 Via del Moro) or wooden toys at Picchio (48 Via del Moro).

CENTRO STORICO

The government buildings, baroque piazzas and world-famous boutiques of the Centro are best discovered on foot.

Sleep soundly – Planning on popping the question? Ferragamo’s Portrait Suites should by your first choice. Ivy-covered Raphael (2 Largo Febo, , raphaelhotel.com, rooms from €200) is more affordable and has a splendid roof garden.

Culture vultures – Discover Picasso’s different eras at Vittoriano (Piazza Venezia), or street artist Basquiat’s work at Palazzo Ruspoli (418 Via del Corso).

Must eat – Try Tonino (18 Via del Governo Vecchio, ) for a loud, informal atmosphere and hearty Roman dishes.

Must drink – Order a glass of Montepulciano at Etablì (9 Via delle Vacche), a Provençal late-night hang-out.

Dance the night away – Cultural complex Rialto (4 Via Sant’Ambrogio) will keep you moving until dawn.

Shop til you drop – Get away from mainstream Corso and walk along quieter Via dei Giubbonari, home to boutiques like Momento (9 Piazza Cairoli), which carries garments that run the gamut from elegant to eccentric.

MONTI ESQUILLINO

Stretching from Termini station to the Roman Forum, the Esquiline Hill is a lively multicultural hub.

Sleep soundly – The magnificent view from the rooftop of minimalist ES Hotel takes in railways, ancient ruins and medieval walls. And the hotel’s Dermastir Spa is one of the best around.

Culture vultures – Discover the Etruscans at Palaexpo (194 Via Nazionale). Elsewhere in the museum, enjoy the works of video artist Bill Viola.

Must eat – Urbana 47 (47 Via Urbana, ) serves soups, pasta dishes, meats… and furniture, because you can buy (almost) everything you see.

Dance the night away – An old wine cellar turned club, Micca (7 Via Micca), drops crowd-pleasing tunes from several different decades.

Shop til you drop – Bring home Italian design from Archivia (23 Via Boschetto) or Atelier Monti (42 Via Panisperna).

SAN LORENZO/PIGNETO

Studenty San Lorenzo is a night-time fave for the young and young-at-heart. Nearby Pigneto is the new arty spot.

Sleep soundly – For an affordable stay, choose Pigneto House, a yellow bed and breakfast with a large balcony and clean, comfy interiors.

Must eat – Locals recommend Rouge (193 Via dei Sabelli, tel. ), a homely trattoria with a Serbian chef preparing perfect Italian dishes and some Balkan specialities. A Pigneto institution, Primo (46 Via del Pigneto, tel. ) does excellent slow food such as baked anchovies with artichokes or seared tuna with green pepper and basil.

Must drink – Sip wine and socialise at the central table of BaràBook (23 Via dei Piceni), a café with walls full of books.

Compiled by Solveig Steinhardt