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France : Toulouse - November 2008

Country Code: Dial for France

November is a busy month in Toulouse. More than 300 antiques dealers descend on the city for the annual Toulouse Antiques Fair (8-16 November), French music magazine Les Inrockuptibles brings its annual festival to Toulouse for the fi rst time (11-18 November), and the Toulouse Short Film Festival (14-30 November) attracts cineastes from all over the world. A little later on the city centre lights up for the Christmas Market (5-28 December). With a bit of luck, you can still enjoy an alfresco coffee on the Place du Capitole. Robin Gauldie escapes the chill

Getting around

Toulouse-Blagnac Airport is 8km north-west of the city.

Bus: A shuttle bus leaves every 20 minutes for the city centre. A single ticket costs €3,90, and a return is €5,90.
Taxi: There are specific taxi stands at the airport, or you can order one by phone. A journey to the city centre costs around €25.
Tourist information: The main office is on Square du Général de Gaulle (tel. , toulousetourisme. com).

ST CYPRIEN (LES ABATTOIRS)

‘The Slaughterhouses’ may not be the most welcoming name, but this postindustrial district west of the Garonne River has a landmark arts centre and a rapidly growing list of places to eat, drink and dance.

Sleep soundly – The Ibis Gare Matabiau is perfectly located between Toulouse’s much-touted historic centre and the new pulse of the city west of the river. Functional and affordable, it’s the best possible base for a weekend exploring the city.

Must eat – Toulouse’s legendary, downhome southern cooking comes into its own in winter, when a brisk stroll through the historic centre or along the river whets your appetite for cassoulet (white bean stew with sausages and pork), the sturdy signature dish of Restaurant des Abattoirs Chez Carmen (97 Allée Charles de Fitte, tel. ). Situated opposite the old abattoirs, it’s been sating the city’s carnivorous appetites for more than 40 years. Chateaubriand and lamb also feature prominently here. In winter, Chez Carmen is also reckoned to offer the best, freshest and plumpest oysters in Toulouse, direct from the coasts of Brittany and the Loire. This is mainstream French food at its traditional best. For a lighter lunch, try Café des Abattoirs (76 Allée Charles de Fitte, tel. ). It’s right next to the superb Musee d’Art Contemporain, with great views of the old city across the river. The set menus are eclectic – try the terroir gourmand sampling menu for the true tastes of south-west France, or the menu Baltique with its seafood emphasis for something different.

Must drink – Visit Bar le Ravelin (6 Place Ravelin), a classic provincial piano bar where the locals go for a night out. The playlist leans towards Charles Aznavour, Edith Piaf, Jacques Brel and Johnny Hallyday.

Shop til you drop – This side of the river hasn’t yet caught up with Toulouse’s trendy heartland, but the old-style Marché de St Cyprien at the hub of the district is a classic regional produce market. There’s more than bread, cheese and saucisson here – pick up the kind of fabulously retro French kitchen kit that you would pay boutique prices for at home.

LES CARMES

At the heart of Toulouse’s historic centre is the Place du Capitole, a gracious 18th-century expanse surrounded by a labyrinth of medieval alleys that eventually lead to the serene cloisters of the Cathedral Saint-Etienne.

Sleep soundly – The Grand Hôtel de l’Opéra is the best place to stay in Toulouse, with cosy rooms that belie the building’s medieval origins. The historic centre’s leading restaurant is in its atrium courtyard.

Culture vultures – The grand salons of Toulouse’s city hall, the Capitole (Place du Capitole), and the centuriesspanning scope of the medieval Cathedrale Saint-Etienne (Place Saint-Etienne) shouldn’t be missed.

Must drink – The arcades that surround the square harbour some of France’s finest terrace cafés. Le Florida (12 Place du Capitole) is still the classic for a kir royale, a crème de menthe or a citron pressé.

Shop til you drop – Splash some cash along the 3km length of the Rue Saint- Rome, Toulouse’s pedestrianised shopping street. It’s lined with smart accessory stores and fashionable jewellers. But if your credit is being crunched, you’ll find vintage accessories from the 30s to the 70s here, too, and in the retro boutiques, it’s strictly cash.

Compiled by Robin Gauldie

Previous issues for Toulouse

Whilst every effort is made to ensure accuracy,
please confirm event/venue details in advance.

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