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Belgium : Brussels - December 2008

Country Code: Dial for Belgium

Brussels in December means the chance to sip Champagne in a heated gondola as you’re lifted above the city’s rooftops, go iceskating in the middle of the town, see work by some of the world’s most renowned contemporary artists, stroll around Christmas markets and make like Audrey Hepburn, with breakfast at Tiffany’s. Whatever you choose to do, you’ve certainly picked the right month to visit this vibrant capital, says Nina Lamparski

Getting around

Brussels Airport

Bus: The No 12 bus runs every 30 minutes between the airport and Rond-Point Schuman. The journey takes about 30 minutes. A oneway ticket costs €3.
Train: Trains from the airport run every 20 minutes at peak times. The journey takes 15 minutes and trains go to Brussels’ three mainline stations. Tickets cost approximately €2,80
Taxi: A taxi from the airport to the city centre will cost around €25-35. The journey should take about 25 minutes.
Tourist information: The main tourist office can be found on Grand’Place in the city centre (tel. , www.brussels.

PLACE FLAGEY

After seemingly never-ending construction work, the Place Flagey has finally risen like a phoenix to become one of Brussels’ most exciting cultural hubs.

Must drink – Funky ‘50s tapas bar Delecta (2 Rue Lannoy) has a large wine-by-the-glass selection and is a favourite among arty types, young professionals and students. The famous Café Belga (18 Place Eugène Flagey) used to attract punters like Moby, but now has serious competition from newcomers such as romantic grunge café Murmure (18 Rue du Belvédère) just around the corner

Must eat – Mixing ‘60s décor with Middle Eastern furniture, the new Kif Kif Café (1 Square de Biarritz, tel. ) is an ultra-cool fusion restaurant run by an Israeli and a Moroccan chef, City lowdown and based inside a former service station. The Michelin-starred La Truffe Noire (12 Boulevard de la Cambre, tel. ) is celebrating its 20th anniversary. Luckily for those visiting Brussels in December, the truffle season runs until the end of January. Try the pasta with cream and white truffles. At the other end of the spectrum, the Flagey fritkot kiosk (near the Ixelles ponds) serves the best frites in town and stays open until the early hours.

Sleep soundly – Located in a tiny ‘30s house, the recently opened Emi’s Rooms have set about redefining the concept of a hotel. The place features three luxurious rooms, one per floor, each with a stunning bathroom. There’s also a mini kitchen and living room on the ground floor if you wish to entertain guests. Ideal for those in search of originality and intimacy without sacrificing their mod cons.

Shop til you drop – Brussels is the first Benelux city to welcome a branch of world-famous jewellery brand Tiffany & Co (66 Boulevard de Waterloo), the iconic jewellers.

GRAND’PLACE TO LE SABLON

December sees this district don a mantle of gold, glitter and fairy lights

Sleep soundly – Spend the night right on the wintry Sablon square at the fourstar NH Hotel du Grand Sablon. For a more luxurious experience, stay at the five-star Stanhope Hotel. Make sure to check its online offers for great weekend deals.

Culture vultures – Until 28 December, the city organises its annual Winter Wonders (plaisirsdhiver.be). The event features light and sound spectacles on the Grand’Place, a romantic Christmas market and a merry-go-round and iceskating rink at the Marché aux Poissons. See the city from above in one of the big Ferris wheel’s cosy heated gondolas. For contemporary arts lovers, don’t miss the exhibition of multimedia guru and Guggenheim protégée Marie-Jo Lafontaine at the Botanique (236 Rue Royale), starting on 18 December and running until February 2009.

Must eat – Skievelat Sablon (16 Rue Joseph Stevens, tel. ) is one of the few top Belgian restaurants near the Sablon with affordable prices. Try the gratin of aubergine and Boursin, followed by the meatloaf with braised endives and potatoes. Two doors down is the beautifully zen Thai eatery Lotus Bar (12 Rue Joseph Stevens, tel. ). Start your dinner with one of its delicious cocktails.

Must drink – Hidden away in a cobblestoned alley lies the city’s first burlesque establishment, the Sablon Rouge (20-22 Rue Sainte-Anne), only open since September. Its December programme is all about Harlem in the roaring ‘20s. Once the show’s over, you can hit the dance floor with the performers. Make sure you book ahead!

Dance the night away – From Carl Cox to Laurent Garnier, every big name DJ has performed at Fuse (208 Rue Blaes). Get ready to party until 7am on weekends. For live Latin and house music, nothing beats the Havana Club (4 Rue de l’Epée).

Shop til you drop – A short walk from the Grand’Place, gorgeous 15th-century Sablon square is stuffed with private art galleries, antiques dealers and all major Belgian chocolate makers. Among these, the most exquisite is Pierre Marcolini (1 Rue des Minimes) who, like a jeweller, displays his sweet creations in elegant glass cases. Try the new Divines Coquillettes collection and weep.

SAINT-GILLES

Bohemian and multicultural, this arty district and former cradle of socialism used to be visited by Lenin, once had a legendary football club and is now home to many of the city’s most unusual bars.

Sleep soundly – Fancy a steak at 5am? Head to the Rendez-vous des Artistes. The all-night brasserie serves better meat than many of the city’s high-end restaurants. And if you’re lucky, one of the waiters will play the grand piano standing in the corner.

Must drink – A bit rock ‘n’ roll, a bit chic, a bit traditional, A Bout de Soufre (11 Rue Tasson-Snel) is Bacchus’ gift to hedonists in search of a chemical-free life. The small wine-bar-cum-bistro, run by two young Frenchmen, specialises in natural wines of exceptional standard. Otherwise, Café Maison du Peuple (39 Parvis de Saint-Gilles) puts on regular exhibitions and concerts. Originally the home of the Union de Saint-Gilles football club, the Brasserie de l’Union (52 Parvis de Saint-Gilles) City lowdown remains a true Brussels institution among locals, hippies and the occasional punk. Le Moeder Lambic (68 Rue de Savoie), another Brussels favourite, is small but has one of the largest beer selections in town.

|SCHAERBEEK

This migrant neighbourhood, where Belgian troubadour Jacques Brel was born, is rapidly becoming a soughtafter location for affluent Eurocrats and young expat families.

Sleep soundly – A short cab drive away is the elegant Hotel Silken Berlaymont, European quarter. The hotel offers really good weekend rates on its website.

Culture vultures – The area’s former slaughterhouses have been turned into a massive cultural centre known as Les Halles de Schaerbeek (22b Rue Royale Sainte-Marie). Concerts and massive parties take place here, such as the exclusive performance by brilliant music trio Gotan Project on 13 December. See halles.be for more details. Meanwhile, kooky, weird and typically Belgian, the Clockarium (163 Boulevard Reyers) showcases a myriad of art deco clocks.

Must eat – Launched in August this year, Le P’tit Bouchon (90 Rue de Linthout, tel. ) is the funky new restaurant from expert wine importer Thierry Letellier. The place has an inviting bohemian-chic charm thanks to its wooden floors, coral walls, animal-print chairs and cute bar counter. Try the warm salad of goats’ cheese, bacon and apple. Run by the Bruno family, Italian restaurant Senza Nome (22 Rue Royale Sainte-Marie, tel. ) has proudly maintained its Michelin star for several years now and serves outstanding cooking in a cosy setting.

Compiled by Nina Lamparski