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Portugal : Faro - December 2008

Country Code: Dial 1 for Portugal

With sunny days still the norm rather than the exception, Faro, gateway to the Algarve, comes into its own at this time of year. Snowbirds, outdoor enthusiasts and golfers all fl ock here to cure the winter blues with some Portuguese sunshine. Paul Rouse dons his shades

Getting around

Faro International Airport

Bus: Eva Bus connects the airport with the city centre. Services run every 30 minutes from 7.05am to 9.15pm. The journey takes 20 minutes and a return ticket costs €4 while a single ticket costs €1,55.
Train: A single journey from the airport to Faro for up to four passengers costs around €15 and takes 15 minutes.
Tourist information: The main tourist office is at 8-11 Rua da Misericordia (tel. , visitportugal.com).

CITY CENTRE

Often bypassed by tourists, Faro is a bustling modern city with a lively arts, entertainment and leisure scene.

Sleep soundly – The four-star Hotel Faro is directly opposite the marina and has a panoramic restaurant. Slightly out of town, the Hotel Alnacir offers comfortable, modern accommodation.

Culture vultures – The Centro Ciencia Viva (Centre for Living Science), on the waterfront at Rua Comandante Francisco Manuel, is located in a former electricity generating station and houses interactive exhibits, an observatory and a flight simulator.

Must eat – Great fish, seafood or steaks – take your pick at Baía (7 Largo Dr Silva Nobre, tel. ). House specials include ensopada de eiros (eel stew) and monkfish cataplana (the Algarve style of cooking in a special copper pot). For partridge, hare or wild boar, try O Vinhão (63 Estrada de Sao Luis, tel. ). It’s also famous for its bacalhau (salted cod) dishes.

Dance the night away – Upa Upa (51 Rua Conselheiro Bivar, tel. ) draws a mixed crowd, plays good music and has a spacious patio. It’s open daily from 9pm to 4am.

Shop til you drop – Designer stores and local boutiques come together in Faro’s main shopping street, Rua de Santo Antonio, while the nearby pedestrianised area is lined with smaller shops and cafés.

OLD CITY

With its medieval walls, castle, cathedral, cobbled streets, museums and historic buildings, the Cidade Velha is a delight.

Culture vultures – The Museu Arqueologico e Lapidar Infante Dom Henrique (near the castle) is housed in a former convent and contains an impressive collection of 17th and 18thcentury art. It’s closed at weekends.

Must eat – Mesa dos Mouros (10 Largo da Sé, tel. ) – the ‘Moors’ table’ – sits opposite the 13thcentury cathedral. A rustic atmosphere and local specialities such as javoli com molho de frutos (wild boar with fruit sauce) make it a popular haunt. Sardines on the barbecue don’t come much better than at the tiny Taberna Modesto nearby. This family-run gem is minimalist to the point of having no menu, address or phone number. Just follow your nose, sit down and enjoy

Shop til you drop – Drop into Livraria Bertrand (27 Rua Dr Francisco Gomes, tel. ), Faro’s best bookshop.

A LITTLE FURTHER AFIELD

Less than 30 minutes from Faro is the ‘Golden Triangle’ of Vale do Lobo, Quinta do Lago and Vilamoura offering luxury resorts, fine dining and some of the best golf courses in Europe.

Sleep soundly – The exquisite Hotel Quinta do Lago overlooks the Ria Formosa Natural Park and has four championship golf courses on its doorstep.

Culture vultures – The Pequenos Formatos art exhibition at Vale do Lobo (Almancil, tel. ) runs from 19 December to 15 February, displaying work by international artists such as Saskia Bremer, Karsten Fuge and Günter Grass

Must eat – Follow the locals to Zé do Norte (Quatro Estradas, Almancil, tel. ) for hearty and unpretentious Algarve cuisine. Try the black pig and the picanha steaks. The French-influenced Aquarelle (Almancil to Vale do Lobo road, tel. ) is a little more formal. Recommended dishes include the foie gras and the duck, with local fish contributing a Portuguese element.

Must drink – Couleur France (Vale de Eguas, Almancil) is a chic restaurant with a late-night champagne bar serving tapas. Take your drink on to the terrace on mild evenings, or into the sheltered winter garden when the nights draw in.

Compiled by Paul Rouse