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Germany : Hamburg - December 2008

Country Code: Dial for Germany

Hamburg is a town attuned to an alternative view of life. Where other German cities are milling with Christmas markets at this time of year, Hamburg’s nightlife comes into its own. For kids, December in Hamburg offers the magical ‘fairytale ships’ on the Jungfernstieg. Ben Knight sets sail in the port city

Getting around

Hamburg Airport is 9km north-west of the city.

Bus: Coaches to the centre depart every 15 minutes from 6am to 7pm, then at 20-minute intervals until 11pm. Single tickets cost €5
Train: The airport doesn’t have a direct rail connection to the city centre. The nearest station is at Ohlsdorf, served by the S1 and S11 trains and U1 underground line. A single ticket is €2,60 and the journey takes 20 minutes.
Taxi: The journey to the city centre takes 20 minutes and costs about €16.
Tourist information: The main office is at Sankt Pauli Landungsbrücken, between bridges 4 and 5 (tel. , hamburgtourism. de).

ALTSTADT

Even though few people actually live here, the concentration of tourist attractions and designer shops makes the old town perennially diverting.

Sleep soundly – The five-star Park Hyatt is decorated in a dignified maritime style. .

Culture vultures – For definitive exhibitions of classical and modern art, nowhere comes close to the Bucerius Kunst Forum (2 Rathausmarkt).

Must eat – With meals that range from the old-fashioned to the innovative, the Park Hyatt’s Apples Restaurant (8 Bugenhagenstraße, ) has become one of the most popular hotel restaurants in town. Alternatively, Le Plat du Jour (4 Dornbusch, 1414) is a perfect capsule of French style and cuisine.

Must drink – Ciu’ – Die Bar (14-15 Ballindamm) is everything a great cocktail bar should be: smart, pricey and full of beautiful people.

SANKT PAULI

The grotesque charms of Sankt Pauli’s Reeperbahn have come to represent Hamburg to the rest of the world, but there are plenty of undiscovered facets to this delightful district.

Sleep soundly – Another hotel with a maritime theme is the Hotel Pacific City lowdown, which offers simple pleasures at excellent prices.

Must eat – A restaurant that regularly makes the critics’ top-10 lists is Artisan (27 Kampstraße, ), with fantastic food, excellent service and an unpretentious atmosphere.

Shop til you drop – Kakao Kontor (42 Langenfelder Damm) takes the idea of chocolate as the food of the gods to its logical conclusion – simply divine.

NEUSTADT

Neustadt is as central as Altstadt, but it is dominated by the harbour on the Binnenalster lake, which lends the area a festive frisson.

Sleep soundly – The floating hotel Das Feuerschiff promises to be one of the more eccentric overnight experiences. There are cosy authentic cabins and weekly entertainments, and a new year’s party and firework display are planned.

Culture vultures – Hamburg has been celebrating the advent season with its Märchenschiffe (Jungfernstieg) for 20 years now. Five fairy-tale ships offer theatre, baking and creative workshops.

Must eat – Die Bank (17 Hohe Bleichen, tel. ) not only submerges its guests in an ultra-cool ambience, but serves off-the-wall dishes influenced by every corner of the globe.

Must drink – Oriental-chic Bar Indochine (9-14 Neuer Jungfernstieg) is one of the most fashionable bars in town.

Shop til you drop – Located in one of Hamburg’s oldest shopping passagen (arcades), Felix Jud (13 Neuer Wall) is probably the most historically interesting and culturally active bookshop in the city

ALTONA

Altona’s relatively high immigrant population and liberal tradition gives it a distinct edge over the rest of the city.

Sleep soundly – The Boston is a temple of classic style. Even the gym and the sauna look elegant.

Culture vultures – Zeisehallen (7-9 Friedensallee) is Altona’s most important cultural centre, combining cinemas, contemporary galleries and cool cafés.

Must eat – A popular and very busy restaurant installed in an old factory building, some claim that Restaurant Eisenstein (9 Friedensallee, tel. ) serves the best pizza in the city.

Compiled by Ben Knight