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France : Lyon - December 2008

Country Code: Dial for France

In the heart of the Côtes du Rhône and Beaujolais wineproducing regions lies magical Lyon. An hour and a half’s drive from alpine ski resorts, on a clear day you can see Mont Blanc from Fourvière hill. And this month, it’s marking the Light Festival (5-8 December) with some spectacular illuminations around the city. Laura Sharpe is suitably dazzled

Getting around

Saint Exupéry Airport

Bus: There is the Satobus every 20 minutes to and from the airport. Buses run from 5.35am to 11.40pm, seven days a week. A single ticket to the city costs €8.60 and the journey takes about 50 minutes.
Taxi: A taxi to the city centre costs approximately €50 during the day and €65 at night, taking around 45 minutes.
Tourist information: The main tourist office is located at Place Bellecour (tel. , en. www.lyon-france.com).

1ST DISTRICT

Enjoy a hot chocolate on one of Place des Terreaux’s heated terraces.

Sleep soundly – The Hôtel de Paris’ warm-toned decor gives it a cosy feel. Boscolo Grand Hôtel (11 Rue Grôlée, tel. , boscolohotels.com, rooms from €110) is luxurious and combines contemporary comforts with traditional style.

Culture vultures – The Repartir à Zero (Start from Zero) exhibition at Musée des Beaux-Arts (20 Place des Terreaux) explores post-World War II art. Giant toys will be projected onto the museum’s façade for the Light Festival.

Must eat – (3 Rue des Remparts d’Ainay, tel. ) serves delicious seasonal dishes washed down with a good choice of local wines. L’Escale de Saveurs (3 Rue Louis Vittet, tel. ) offers interesting combinations of flavours, such as spiced pork tenderloin with cocoa beans.

Must drink – Indulge in prestigious wines at Le Passage (8 Rue du Plâtre).

Dance the night away – Le Madras 2 (3 Rue Terme) plays reggae and serves up Caribbean cocktails.

Shop til you drop – Egal1té (1 Rue Louis Vittet) has a lovely range of prêtà- porter clothes.

2ND DISTRICT

The 2nd district is home to pretty squares, luxury boutiques and Place Bellecour’s outdoor ice rink.

Sleep soundly – The refined Le Royal Lyon looks over Place Bellecour, in the heart of the city.

Must eat – Les 3 Dômes (20 Quai Gailleton, tel. ) has a lavish menu and beautiful views from the top floor of the Sofitel Bellecour. Try the preserved shoulder of young Limousin lamb with basil and red pepper. La P’tite Soupière (41 Rue Franklin, tel. ) serves modestly priced Swiss cuisine… and sells antiques!

Must drink – Samy Café (12 Rue de la Monnaie) does fantastic cocktails.

Dance the night away – L’Ambassade (4 Rue Stella) spins electro into the early hours.

Shop til you drop – Philadelphia (38 Rue Auguste Comte) sells stunning antique jewellery.

LE VIEUX LYON

Explore the old town’s maze of secret passageways – truly magical.

Sleep soundly – Soak up the Florentine architecture at Le Phénix Hôtel.

Culture vultures – Cathédral Saint- Jean goes technicolour for the Light Festival, with musical illuminations.

Must eat – For excellent local cuisine, try Cabaretier (6 Rue de la Fronde, tel. ). Les Retrouvailles (38 Rue du Boeuf, tel. ) carefully selects fresh market produce for its homemade dishes.

Must drink – Gorge on fine vintage wine and local cheese at La Cave des Voyageurs (7 Place Saint Paul).

RIVE GAUCHE

Stroll in the park or head to the business district’s mall, Part Dieu.

Sleep soundly – A stone’s throw from the Centre de Congrès, Hotel de la Cité Concorde Lyon has beautiful views across the park and the Rhône River.

Culture vultures – Explore the city’s resistance roots at Centre d’Histoire de la Résistance et Déportation (14 Avenue Berthelot). The Parc de la Tête d’Or lights up during the Light Festival.

Must eat – Le Petit Dauphin (38 Rue Notre-Dame, tel. ) does North African food.

Must drink – Le Baroc (opposite 18 Quai Gal Sarrail) is a bar-cum-barge with velvet sofas and an immense crystal chandelier.

Dance the night away – Q-Boat (opposite 17 Quai Augagneur) attracts the city’s most elegant revellers.

Compiled by Laura Sharpe