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Norway : Oslo - December 2008

Country Code: Dial for Norway

As Christmas approaches, Oslo’s rooftops become covered with snow, the surrounding countryside looks like whipped cream and most restaurants and cafés make sure they have a log fi re burning. Get into the yuletide spirit by catching The Nutcracker at Oslo’s opera house. Gwladys Fouché books her ticket

Getting around

Gardermoen Airport is 48km north of the city centre.

Bus: A shuttle bus leaves the airport every 20 minutes, taking about 40 minutes to reach central Oslo. A single ticket costs €15/NOK 120.
Train: The Flytoget express train leaves Gardermoen airport every 10 minutes and takes about 20 minutes to reach the city. A single ticket is €20/NOK 160.
Taxi: A journey to the city centre costs approximately €70/ NOK 560 and takes about 45 minutes.
Tourist information: The main office is near Central Station in the Trafikanten Service Center, 1 Jernbanetorget (tel. , visitoslo.com).

CITY CENTRE

Oslo’s small but perfectly formed city centre is easily explored on foot.

Sleep soundly – Art lovers will enjoy the Edvard Munch originals hanging in the ground floor salon at the art deco Hotel Continental.

Culture vultures – Watch Tchaikovsky’s classic ballet, on through December at the new Opera House (operaen.no), a landmark piece of modern architecture. The Astrup Fearnley Museum of Contemporary Art (4 Dronningensgate) has an Andy Warhol exhibition until 14 December.

Must eat – Lunch at the minimalist and airy Kafé Grosch (3 Bankplassen, tel. ), inside the Architecture Museum. For dinner, enjoy traditional Norwegian food – fermented trout or pan-fried cod – at Mauds i Kvadraturen (24 Tollbugata, tel. ).

Shop til you drop – Stock up on treats such as gingerbread, Christmas beer and aquavit (a lethal spirit) at the Town Hall Square Christmas Market (Rådhusplassen) until 21 December.

GRØNLAND

Nicknamed Little Karachi, Grønland is a vibrant multicultural area with a growing number of nightlife venues.

Culture vultures – A 10-minute walk north leads you to the wonderful Munch City lowdown Museum (53 Tøyengata). It’s holding a special exhibition on Edvard Munch’s formative years until 11 January.

Must eat – Vognmand Nilsen (3 Rubina Ranasgate, tel. ) has had rave reviews for its modern European cuisine, such as lobster bisque with saffron aioli. Across the square, Dul Paa Theaterplassen (10 Mandalls Gate, tel. ) specialises in seafood dishes such as pepper-grilled tuna and – for the adventurous – whale steak.

Must drink – Set in a former workshop, Oslo Mekaniske Verksted (34 Tøyenbekken) has been transformed into a popular bar. Warm up by the fireplace at Asylet (28 Grønland), a bar housed in a 19thcentury wooden building and divided into several cosy rooms.

Dance the night away – Gloria Flames (18 Grønland) is a bar and club renowned for its rock gigs. The cosy, candle-lit Dattera til Hagen (10 Grønland) hosts DJs and live acts.

MAJORSTUA

To the north-west of the city centre, Majorstua is where young, chic Norwegians live.

Sleep soundly – Nordic design fans on a budget should head to the Thon Hotel Gyldenløve. Bedrooms come in shades of white, mocha and grey.

Culture vultures – Vigeland Park (Kirkeveien) is an impressive sculpture park with 212 statues centred around a monolith representing the human struggle for existence.

Must drink – Litteraturhuset (29 Wergelandsveien) is the new favourite hangout of Oslo’s literary crowd. It’s also a stone’s throw from their erstwhile favourite Lorry (12 Parkveien).

Shop til you drop – For design pieces and kitchenware, head to Traktøren Kjøkkenutstyr (25 Bogstadveien), and for sturdy outdoor clothes, go to Helly Hansen (21 Bogstadveien) or Oslo Snowboard Center (1B Sørkedalsveien). Two Christmas markets will take place on 13 and 14 December in Vibes Gate.

FROGNER

The wealthy parents of the chic young set live in this elegant area full of beautiful 19th-century buildings.

Sleep soundly – The ivy-covered Clarion Collection Hotel Gabelshus has an intimate feel.

Culture vultures – Visit the lovingly refurbished home of playwright Henrik Ibsen at the Ibsen Museum (26 Henrik Ibsens Gate).

Must drink – As its name indicates, the popular Champagneria (2 Frognerveien) specialises in all things Champagne-related.

Compiled by Gwladys Fouché