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Portugal : Porto - December 2008

Country Code: Dial 1 for Portugal

As Christmas approaches, Porto’s main shopping streets are a feast for the senses, with festive lights, music and the scent of seasonal pastries mingling with roasting chestnuts. Expect street concerts, carousel rides and ice skating. And what better way to celebrate than with a glass of port, asks Paul Blaney

Getting around

Francisco Sá Carneiro Airport

Bus: The 601 bus runs to the city centre every half hour, the 602 runs every 15 minutes. The journey takes about an hour and tickets cost €1.30.
Train: The metro runs into the airport terminal and takes 25 minutes to reach the city centre. Tickets cost €1.35. Trains run from 6.00am to 1.00am.
Taxi: A taxi to the town centre costs about €20 and will take approximately 20 minutes.
Tourist information: 25 Rua Clube dos Fenianos (tel.//, www.visitportugal.com).

RIBEIRA

This lively waterfront quarter of narrow alleys, bars and shops slopes steeply down to the River Douro.

Sleep soundly – The newly opened Guest House Douro is the city’s first and only waterfront lodging house.

Culture vultures – The ornate Palácio da Bolsa (the former Stock Exchange, Rua Ferreira Borges) combines a superb range of architectural styles, including the breathtaking Arabian Room.

Must eat – Restaurante Sessenta Setenta (1a Rua Sobre o Douro, tel. ) is in a former convent, has superb river views and serves dishes infused with simple, subtle flavours. Choose the sea bass with saffron or the pigeon with sweet preserved pumpkin.

Shop til you drop – Centro Regional de Artes Tradicionais (CRAT, 37 Rua da Reboleira) specialises in regional arts and crafts. It’s a good place to find a present for those tricky relatives.

BAIXA

The city centre has many architectural sights and is easy to explore on foot.

Sleep soundly – The venerable Hotel Infante Sagres is perfectly located and has elegance to spare.

Culture vultures – The Lello Bookstore (144 Rua das Carmelitas) is as much a cultural landmark as it is a bookshop. Opened in 1906, it’s quite simply one of the most exquisite bookstores in the world. And they even City lowdown have a tiny coffee shop on the second floor that serves port.

Dance the night away – The city centre club of choice is Plano B (30 Rua Cândido dos Reis).

Shop til you drop – Close to Porto’s iconic Torre dos Clerigos, the area around Rua Cândido dos Reis and Galeria de Paris has become the trendiest shopping district in the city centre. Among the fashionable bars, cafés and shops, check out Mezzanine (53 Rua Cândido dos Reis), which stocks a sporty collection of casual clothes.

BOAVISTA

This upmarket district gives its name to Porto’s other football team.

Sleep soundly – BessaHotel offers good value for money. Rooms are decorated in spare, modern style with lots of grey and white.

Must eat – The wine-bar-inspired Restaurante ‘L Fresco (934 Avenida da Boavista, tel. ) has a great atmosphere, tasty Portuguese food and an excellent wine list.

Dance the night away – Triplex (911 Avenida da Boavista) is a popular bar/ club that hosts both DJs and live acts.

Shop til you drop – Whether you’re shopping for others or filling your own stocking, two stores not to miss are Sneakers Delight (203 Rua José Gomes Ferreira) and Chocolates Arcadia (1046 Avenida da Boavista), which specialises in handmade, soft-centred sweets.

FOZ

Stretching north from the mouth of the Douro, Foz is Porto’s beach district, an area that gets particularly lively after sundown.

Sleep soundly – The Hotel Boa-Vista is right across the road from the beach and has good value rooms and suites with sea views.

Must eat – Those who prefer lobster and crab to turkey and sprouts should make tracks for O Gaveto (826 Rua Roberto Ivens, tel. ) for fresh, affordable seafood dishes.

Must drink – Trintaeum (564 Passeio Alegre) is the place to see and be seen in Foz. Expect thumping live music, cuttingedge interiors and a stylish crowd.

Dance the night away – When the time comes to hit the floor, Indústria (843 Avenida do Brasil) has a well-deserved reputation as Foz’s allnight party favourite.

Compiled by Paul Blaney