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Sweden : Stockholm - December 2008

Country Code: Dial for Sweden

You’re as likely as not to see snow in Stockholm in December, adding gloss to an already beautiful city. On 13 December the locals will celebrate Sankta Lucia, with young girls dressed in white and wearing crowns of candles walking in processions in the streets while everyone else stuffs themselves with saffron fl avoured buns and ginger biscuits. Helena Persbrandt joins the party

Getting around

Airport is 8km west of the city.

Bus: Flygbussarna buses link the airport with Stockholm’s bus/train station, Cityterminalen. The journey costs €14/ SEK 130 return and takes 20 minutes, with departures every 20 minutes at peak times.
Taxi: Licensed cabs are available outside the terminal. The fare to the city centre is about €20/SEK 186.
Tourist information: The main office is at 27 Hamngatan, with the entrance on Kungsträdgården (tel. , stockholmtown.com).

GAMLA STAN

This is the island where Stockholm was founded in the 13th century. Today Gamla Stan (the old town) is slightly touristy but stunning and very romantic, especially in winter.

Sleep soundly – As its name suggests, the cute Lord Nelson Hotel is a maritime-themed hotel dedicated to the British admiral.

Culture vultures – Enjoy a traditional Sankta Lucia concert at the Storkyrkan (Cathedral, 1 Trångsund) on 12 December at 7pm, 13 December at 4pm and 6pm, or 14 December at 4pm. On the other side of the Norr Bridge, Sankt Jacobs Kyrka (St Jacob’s Church, 2 Västra Trädgårdsgatan) will hold a Sankta Lucia concert on 11 December at 6pm.

Shop til you drop – Stock up on Christmas decorations and yuletide delicacies such as smoked sausages, candy and glögg (mulled wine) during the Gamla Stan Christmas Market (around Gamla Stan), which runs until 23 December.

SKEPPSHOLMEN

The tiny island of Skeppsholmen is where Stockholmers head when they want to enjoy high culture.

Sleep soundly – Revel in luxury at the classically elegant Grand Hôtel, which enjoys beautiful views over Stockholm’s harbour, just across Skeppsholmen’s Bridge.

Culture vultures – The excellent Moderna Muséet (the Modern Art Museum, Skeppsholmen) runs a highprofile exhibition on the surrealist artist Max Ernst until 11 January. Next door, the Arkitekturmuséet (the Architecture Museum) is putting on a show dedicated to Barcelona and Catalan architecture until 6 January.

Must eat – Tuck into weekend brunch at the Moderna Muséet’s Restaurant (tel. ). The food on offer ranges from herring and cold meats to scones, bagels and brownies. It’s a Stockholm institution. Or head for the serene Café Blom (in the Architecture Museum, tel. ) for yummy coffee and pastries.

SÖDERMALM

Historically a working class district, Södermalm has turned into the place where stylish Swedes hang out.

Sleep soundly – Budget-conscious travellers will love The Red Boat, a hostel anchored right in the heart of Stockholm.

Must drink – Terminally hip H20 and Eld are both in the basement of beer hall Kvarnen (4 Tjähovsgatan). Highceilinged Bar Nada (140 Åsögatan) has DJs spinning dance and lounge music.

Dance the night away – Debaser (1 Karl Johans Torg) is one of best places for pop and rock. Head up the hill to Södra Teatern (1-3 Mosebacke Torg) for live jazz and world music.

Shop til you drop – Södermalm is full of vintage clothing shops like Beyond Retro (144 Åsogatan), Lisa Larssons Second Hand (48 Bondegatan) and La Principessa (1 Rosenlundsgatan).

KUNGSHOLMEN

Tucked behind City Hall, Kungsholmen is a leafy and laid back residential area.

Must eat – For great waterfront views, head to Restaurang Kungsholmen (Norr Mälarstrand, 464 Kajplats, tel. ), a food court with seven kitchens from around the world. The contemporary Spisa hos Helena (18 Scheelegatan, tel. ) does modern European food such as oven-baked salmon with chanterelles and apple chutney.

Must drink – ‘Stockholm’s pinkest bar’, Göken (28 Pontonjärsgatan) is popular with the city’s gay crowd.

Shop til you drop – Visit R.O.O.M (20 Alströmergatan) for moderately priced, good quality Nordic furniture.

Compiled by Helena Persbrandt