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Italy : Bologna - January 2009

Country Code: Dial for Italy

After the Christmas festivities are over, Bologna gets a little quieter, which leaves visitors with plenty of opportunity to go shopping or catch the latest exhibition – like the Giovanni Battista Cavalletto retrospective at the Medieval Museum until the 22 February. Massimo Benvegnù enjoys the silence

Getting around

Guglielmo Marconi Airport is 6km outside the city

Bus: A shuttle bus runs from the airport to the train station every 15 minutes. The journey takes about 20 minutes and costs €5. Other buses serve Modena and Siena.
Taxi: The journey to the city centre takes about 20 to 30 minutes and costs about €18.
Tourist information: The main office is in Piazza Maggiore (9660).

VIA DELL’INDIPENDENZA

The vast majority of the city’s activities take place under Via Indipendenza’s porticoes.

Shop til you drop – For up-front street fashion, try Paris, Texas (67 Via dell’Indipendenza). Another good address is Venere (71 Via dell’Indipendenza).

Must drink – A great way to start a winter day is with a delicious pastry and a creamy cappuccino at Bar Pasticceria Impero (39 Via dell’Indipendenza).

Must eat – Locals stop by at Pizzeria Altero (33 Via dell’Indipendenza, tel. ) to grab one of its typically small, square pizzas. They come with many different toppings, such as pomodoro sauce (tomatoes and oregano) with sausage and courgette, or buffalo mozzarella with air-cured ham. A true bargain, they start from €1,20.

Sleep soundly – A recent facelift has seen an old palace transformed into I Portici Hotel , a hotel that’s big on glamour and has a great bar.

VIA GALLIERA

If Via dell’Indipendenza is too crowded for you, move to this parallel street and experience a slower pace of life.

Must eat – Trattoria Caminetto d’Oro (4 Via Dei Falegnami, tel. ) is sublime. The fiorentina (a succulent Tbone steak) is a must. Otherwise, the rich regional cheese platters are an excellent alternative, followed by the ice cream with balsamic vinegar topping.

Culture vultures – The Museo Civico Medievale (4 Via Manzoni) has a vast collection of art and artefacts from the middle ages. The current exhibition (on until 22 February) displays the work of Giovanni Battista Cavalletto, a native son and renowned miniaturist master from the 15th to 16th century.

STRADA MAGGIORE

From the Two Towers, walk down to Strada Maggiore and discover its hidden wonders, secret gardens and ancient buildings.

Shop til you drop – If you’re looking for a good antiques shop, head straight to Antichita’ Due Torri (17 Strada Maggiore), which sells ceramics, trinkets and 19th-century smoking pipes.

Dance the night away – A big favourite with the city’s student population, alternative club Sesto Senso (9 Via Petroni) stages electro nights, art exhibitions and, during winter, the occasional free concert.

Must eat – In a town where ham is king, Clorofilla (64 Strada Maggiore, tel. ) is one of the city’s best vegetarian restaurants, and is also worth a visit for its pastel interiors.

Culture vultures – One of Bologna’s most famous symbols, the Two Towers were erected by local families for reasons of prestige, and are now among the best known sights in the city. If you’re willing to climb its 498 steps, you can get a fantastic view of the city from the top of the Asinelli tower. The Museo Internazionale e Biblioteca della Musica at Palazzo Sanguinetti (34 Strada Maggiore) is a beautiful 18th-century palace in its own right. It also displays historical musical instruments, sheet music and original manuscripts.

VIA MARCONI

Scientist Guglielmo Marconi (1874- 1937) is one of Bologna’s most famous sons. A street bearing his name couldn’t be anything but bracingly modern.

Shop til you drop – Head to Glamour Retail (9 Via Marconi) for Italian high fashion.

Sleep soundly – Simple but extremely comfy, Bed & Breakfast Le Vele is conveniently positioned in the city centre.

Must drink – Bologna’s fashion mavens gather at Caffe’ del Navile (30 Via Marconi) for the traditional aperitivi (late afternoon drinks) and complimentary nibbles on the side. Sip a mint tea, take a drag from a water pipe and, if you’re lucky, get a glimpse of one of Katia Zero’s belly-dancing sessions at Maison Moresque (2 Via Grabinski).

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