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Denmark : Copenhagen - January 2009

Country Code: Dial for Denmark

In the deepest, darkest hours of winter, Danes cosy up in cafés and restaurants for a bit of hygge (a uniquely Scandinavian sense of warmth and comfort) before heading to the latest hip art exhibition, such as installation artist Mike Nelson’s show at the National Gallery this month (on until 23 January). Connie Mikkelsen gets cosy

Getting around

Copenhagen Airport

Train: The journey from the airport costs €4/DKK 30. Trains stop at all the major urban stations, taking around 13 minutes to reach the city centre. The metro takes 19 minutes to reach the city centre and stops at Nørreport too. Tickets are also €4/DKK 30.
Taxi: A trip into the centre costs around €27/DKK 200 and takes 20 minutes.
Tourist information: The main office can be found opposite Tivoli Gardens (tel. , visitcopenhagen.com).

CITY CENTRE

The compact historic heart of the city is easily explored on foot.

Sleep soundly – Cheap and centrally located, Danhostel Copenhagen City is perfect on a budget

Culture vultures – Watch grown-ups turn into wide-eyed kids at the Tivoli Gardens (3 Vesterbrogade), a charming 19th-century amusement park. The National Museum (10 Ny Vestergade, natmus.dk) is holding an exhibition this month on how objects are preserved by the museum’s conservators.

Must drink – During the day, enjoy a fruit cocktail at Joe and the Juice (11 Ny Østergade). In the evening, taste a Violet Martini at the so-hip-it-hurts cocktail lounge Ruby (10 Nybrogade).

Dance the night away – Nadsat (10 Hyskenstræde) is a record shop by day and a popular electro club by night.

Shop til you drop – For fine linen, head to Geismars (21 Store Strandstræde), a Danish business that’s been going since 1866. For beautiful high-heeled shoes, strut to Kassandra (27 Grønnegade).

CHRISTIANSHAVN

‘Little Amsterdam’, as the locals call Christianshavn, is a charming area criss-crossed with canals and Dutchstyle townhouses.

Sleep soundly – A short walk southeast leads to the towering Ra.

Culture vultures – Dutch architect Rem Koolhaas exhibits his plans for a spectacular local project throughout January at the Danish Architecture Centre (27b Strandgade, dac.dk).

Must eat – For a unique culinary experience, try the Nordic gourmet cuisine of René Redzepi at Noma (93 Strandgade, tel. ). The idyllic Restaurant Kanalen (2 Wilders Plads, tel. ) serves tasty dishes like pheasant with chestnut puree.

Must drink – An arty crowd has made Café Wilder (56 Wildersgade) its home.

ROSENBORG

This leafy area on the north-west edge of the centre boasts some of the city’s finest museums.

Must eat – Kokkeriet (64 Kronprinsessegade, tel. ) dishes up modern European with a Danish twist, such as veal tatare with smoked eel. Go Japanese at the local branch of Sticks ’n’ Sushi (59 Nansensgade, tel. ).

Culture vultures – UK installation artist Mike Nelson has turned an entire floor of the National Gallery (Statens Museum for Kunst, 48- 50 Sølvgade, smk.dk) into a series of rooms with references to the theatre for a piece entitled A Structural Conceit. The Hirschprung Collection (20 Stockholmsgade, hirschprung.dk) explores the relationship between artist and model in an exhibition running until 26 January. Afterwards take a walk through the Renaissance-style Rosenborg Palace (4a Østre Voldgade) and its gardens.

VESTERBRO

It used to be Copenhagen’s red-light and meatpacking district, now it’s one of the hippest areas in town.

Sleep soundly – For some first-class pampering, head for the Copenhagen Marriott Hotel .

Shop til you drop – Istedgade is lined with quirky boutiques like 50s nostalgia shop Girlie Hurly (101 Istedgade).

Dance the night away – The popular Jolene (81-85 Flæsketorvet) has DJs playing everything from hip hop to electronica. Kødbordene 18 (18 Kødboderne) reserves Friday nights for new DJ collective Galop

Must drink – Housed in a former pharmacy and decked out with secondhand furniture, Bang & Jensen (130 Istedgade) has become a Vesterbro institution. Beer lovers flock to Pegasus (28 Mysundegade) to sample its wide range of tipples from Scandinavia, Belgium and Germany.

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