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Poland : Krakow - January 2009

Country Code: Dial for Poland

Krakow in January is quite chilly, but never fear – there are ways to stay warm, most notably the Krakow Carnival. It starts in the Old Town Square on New Year’s Eve and goes on for weeks, staging everything from clubbing nights to charity balls and fashion shows. Rosa Pyczek comes in from the cold

Getting around

Balice Airport

Bus: Radtur runs regular buses into the city centre. A single journey costs about €1,90/PLN 7 and takes 30 minutes.
Taxi: A taxi costs around €13/PLN 50 and takes about 30 minutes.
Tourist information: The main office is at 1 Rynek Główny (tel. , krakow.pl). Orbis (41 Rynek Główny) also provides lots of useful information.

OLD TOWN AND RYNEK

Krakow’s old town is truly stunning, and when seen at night with a scattering of snow and softening lamplight, it looks magical. This is the heart of the tourist area and it offers amazing restaurants, chic cafés and enough shops to satisfy even the most ardent souvenir hunter.

Must eat – Hidden away from the busy central thoroughfare is Restauracja Padre (11 ul. Wislna, entrance from ul. Olszewskiego, tel. ), an Indian restaurant that’s illuminated with multi-coloured lights in warming colours. Those yearning for traditional Polish cuisine should try Bohema (2 ul. Gołebia, tel. ) – try the pork with plums in a sweet honey sauce.

Culture vultures – The Krakow Carnival starts on New Year’s Eve and goes on until Shrove Tuesday, some two months later. Highlights include balls, fashion shows, parties at restaurants and bars, and Fat Thursday (tłusty czwartek) when everyone is expected to eat as many paczki (doughnuts) as they can stomach. This year it falls on 19 February. The carnival season is crowned by Shrovetide (Zapusty), which spans the last five days before Lent. The last day’s decadent festivities traditionally go on until dawn, before ending with a meal of herring. After this, repentant revellers take themselves off to church and prepare for Lent’s 40 days of self-denial, starting with Ash Wednesday on 25 February.

Shop til you drop – Poland is wellknown for its hand-carved wooden angels, and Trafika Arte (33 ul. Grodzka) has a great selection, as well as angels made of metal, glass and salt. Eclectic shoppers will appreciate ESTE Gallery of Curiosities (16 ul. Sławkowska), which stocks anything from amber jewellery to some very odd furniture.

Dance the night away – Local lore has it that Afera (13/15 ul. Sławkowska) is a good place to start affairs. Equally entertaining is Circus (16 ul. Starowislna), which has one of the biggest dance floors in the city, is decked out in fur and polka dots and has the odd statue of a lion standing sentinel.

JEWISH QUARTER – KAZIMIERZ

The city’s former Jewish Quarter was devastated after World War II, but in the past few years it has come to life again. Cafés, bars, shops and galleries abound, making this a must-see part of Krakow.

Dance the night away – The decor is spartan, but the music is excellent at cavernous indie club B-Side (16 ul. Estery). Kawiarnia Naukowa (29/31 ul. Jakuba) attracts a rather gothic crowd, as evinced by the tombstone tables.

Must drink – Part café, part cocktail bar, W Rytmie (2 ul. Józefa) is the best of both worlds. Frothy cappuccinos and a choice of 40 cocktails are offered in a laid-back yet romantic atmosphere. For something a little less intimate, try Zblizenia (7 pl. Nowy), a watering hole that comes complete with saggy sofas and the obligatory loud music.

Must eat – In the hotel bearing the same name is Rubinstein (12 ul. Szeroka, tel. ), a highend restaurant with a feeling of elegance and a menu that blends Polish and Mediterranean flavours perfectly. Try the papardelle with duck and Polish forest mushrooms – totally original. If you love Italian cuisine, then you can’t go wrong with Portofino (2 ul. Waska, tel. ). Unless, that is, you’re a die-hard pizza fan – there aren’t any on offer. But the pasta, meat and fish dishes more than make up for this deficit. Make sure you try the roasted mussels served in garlic mousse and don’t pass up the profitroles for dessert.

Sleep soundly – The RT Regent Hotel has cheerful, spacious rooms and is right in the heart of Kazimierz. An equally good bet is Dom Casimi which has 12 smart yet simply furnished rooms.

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Previous issues for Krakow

Whilst every effort is made to ensure accuracy,
please confirm event/venue details in advance.

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