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Italy : Rome - January 2009

Country Code: Dial for Italy

On 6 January, the traditional Epiphany celebrations bring friendly witches to Piazza Navona. Now that Christmas is over, the city enjoys calmer days and prepares for the winter sales. Renaissance lovers fl ock to the Quirinale for their last chance to admire Bellini’s masterpieces (on until 11 January). Solveig Steinhardt joins them

Getting around

Leonardo da Vinci Fiumicino Airport

Bus: The Terravision bus is cheap (about €15 for a return), but the timetable less frequent – there’s approximately one bus every two hours and the journey takes 45 minutes.
Train: The Leonardo Express runs every 30 minutes into Termini station. The journey takes 35 minutes and costs €11.
Taxi: The journey from the airport to the city centre takes 50 minutes. Expect to pay around €40-60.
Tourist information: The main office is at 11 Via Parigi (, www.romaturismo.com).

TRASTEVERE

Trastevere’s cobblestone alleys and pretty shops are the perfect setting for a romantic afternoon stroll followed by rich aperitivos in the crowded piazzas.

Sleep soundly – Luxurious and modern, the Ripa Hotel is first choice among art and design lovers.

Must eat – Book a table at Vinallegro (114 Piazza Giuditta Tamani Arquati, tel. ) for an intimate but informal candlelit dinner. Food here is hearty and the wine is excellent.

Must drink – The heart of Trastevere’s nightlife, Friends (34 Piazza Trilussa) is a favourite among the city’s younger set. It has a great selection of cocktails and beers.

Shop til you drop – Fashion-savvy women flock to Victory (19 Via di San Francesco a Ripa) for Italian labels, eccentric garments and French shoes.

CENTRO STORICO

The winter sales have begun and Rome’s shopping district is buzzing. Pitch in and join the bargain hunt!

Sleep soundly – Hotel Campo de’Fiori was recently renovated, but the rooms maintain a charming, bygone feel with wooden ceiling beams and classic furnishings. » Must eat Try the gilthead fillet in a lime crust at Di Cotte e Di Crude , or the famous Jewish-style artichokes at La Taverna del Ghetto .

Culture vultures – Gaze at the vivid colour and refined Renaissance style of Bellini’s best work at Scuderie del Quirinale (16 Via Ventiquattromaggio, scuderiequirinale.it). Or find out about the life and times of Caesar at DART Chiostro del Bramante (Via della Pace, chiostrodelbramante.it).

Must drink – Take in some contemporary art with your cocktails at Circus (15 Via della Vetrina), an art gallery/cocktail bar that’s open ’til late.

Shop til you drop – Sophisticated noses will appreciate the bottled scents at Profumum (10 Via di Ripetta), made with Mediterranean plants and other luxurious ingredients

TESTACCIO

Rome’s old industrial area is the beating heart of the city’s nightlife.

Sleep soundly – The four-star Abitart Hotel is the perfect base from which to explore sleepless Testaccio.

Must eat – Enjoy sushi and Mediterranean dishes in clear view of the Monte dei Cocci at Ketumbar (24 Via Galvani, tel 06 ). The dark chocolate trio here is pure heaven!

Must drink – The Four XXXX Pub (29 Via Galvani) serves up live jazz, soul and reggae along with your beer.

Dance the night away – A former carpenter’s workshop turned club, Akab (69 Via di Monte Testaccio) plays host to different DJs spinning soul and funk. If you prefer house, head straight for Goa Club (13 Via Giuseppe Libetta).

MONTI AND CELIO

Stretching from the Colosseum to Via Nazionale, this medieval neighbourhood hides many fascinating secrets.

Culture vultures – Walk where ancient Romans once shopped. Trajan’s Markets (94 Via IV Novembre) were Ancient Rome’s malls and now house an important archaeology museum.

Must eat – Up for oysters? F.I.S.H.’s (16 Via dei Serpenti, ) menu is dedicated to seafood and features lots of sushi, fish tartare and carpaccio.

Must drink – Classic meets cool at Oppio Caffè (72 Via delle Terme di Tito), where you sip Martinis to live jazz while gazing out towards the Colosseum.

Shop til you drop – If you can’t find it, have it made! Danish designer Tina Sondergard (1D Via del Boschetto) sews made-tomeasure dresses and coats using the most beautiful fabrics.

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