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France : Toulouse - January 2009

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It’s not so much the historic city centre that will be the focus of attention this year as the hightech districts, where Toulouse has invested heavily. Look out for events kicking off Astronomy Global Year and Moon Year. But aesthetes need not despair, says Anthea Gerrie. There’s also the city-wide modern dance festival C’est la Danse Contemporaine (21 January – 6 February)

Getting around

Toulouse-Blagnac Airport is 8km north-west of the city.

Bus: A shuttle bus leaves every 20 minutes for the city centre. A single ticket costs €3,90, and a return is €5,90.
Taxi: There are specific taxi stands at the airport, or you can order one by phone. A journey to the city centre costs around €25.
Tourist information: The main office is on Square du Général de Gaulle (tel. , toulousetourisme. com).

CITÉ DE L’ESPACE

Situated on the eastern edge of Toulouse, this space-themed park is probably the city’s biggest draw.

Culture vultures – This triumphal space park on Avenue Jean Gonord is to Toulouse what Epcot is to Orlando – a city within a city incorporating a planetarium, IMAX theatre, thrilling life size models of rockets, spacecraft and a replica of the Mir space station.

Must eat – Le Metropolitan (2 Place Auguste Albert, tel. ) offers Michelin-starred eating within a 10-minute stroll of the park. Aux Secrets du Grand-Mère (180 Avenue de Saint-Exupéry, tel. ) provides a fine introduction to the Gascon specialities for which this area of France is famous.

LES CARMES

The wealth of rosy sandstone underpinning the town centre is why they call Toulouse ‘the Pink City’. There’s real glamour in the magnificent Place du Capitôle, where treasured art deco establishments lurk behind the 18th-century colonnades.

Sleep soundly – Hotel du Grand Balcon is the city’s newest posh hotel – actually a refurb of a 30s jewel – with a great location by the Capitôle. Citadines Toulouse Wilson (8 Boulevard de Strasbourg, tel. , citadines.com, rooms from €140) offers self-catering in a brilliantly central location. Hotel Garonne is special for both its boutiquey elegance and its location close to the lovely Pont Neuf, an easy walk from arty Saint Cyprien.

Culture vultures – Toulouse’s most famous sight is the exquisite cloister of the Cathedral Saint-Etienne (Place Saint-Etienne), particularly worth visiting when a concert is on. Less well known but very worthwhile are the collections, housed in a magnificent mansion, of the Fondation Bemberg (Place d’Assézat), particularly three dozen Bonnard paintings, Renaissance bronzes and Venetian sculptures.

Must eat – Le Bon Vivre (15b Place Wilson, tel. ) is a cosy, inexpensive brasserie that’s hugely popular with locals and bang in the middle of town.

Must drink – Bar du Matin (Place des Carmes) is one of the city’s most famous watering holes.

Shop til you drop – For homewares, head to Galeries Lafayette Maison on the newly pedestrianised Rue Alsace- Lorraine, also notable for shoe shops Minelli (30 Rue Alsace-Lorraine), Mephisto (31 Rue Alsace-Lorraine) and the Boutique du Stade Toulousain (75 Rue Alsace-Lorraine).

SAINT CYPRIEN

This area of disused abattoirs and factories on the opposite side of the Garonne River from the town centre is now a vibrant arts district. The highlight is the old market, but be sure to wander the side streets too.

Sleep soundly – Hotel St Claire is a two-star hotel de charme, but the weekend rate is a four-star bargain.

Must eat – L’Hémicycle (76 Allée Charles de Fitte, tel. ) has opened up on the site of the old Café des Abattoirs and is a salon de the (a relaxed tea house) as well as a fine lunch place right next to the Centre d’Art Contemporain.

Must drink – Le Petit Diable (99 Allée Charles de Fitte) offers everything from theatre to Argentine tango nights with your aperitif. La Loupiote (39 Rue Réclusane) stages painting and photography exhibitions, a monthly movie night and the opportunity for lively discussion with friendly locals.

Shop til you drop – The Saint Cyprien book market (Place Rouget) is ideal for a Monday, when most museums are closed. Look out for old American comics.



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Previous issues for Toulouse
 
   
Whilst every effort is made to ensure accuracy,
please confirm event/venue details in advance.



 

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