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Germany : Hamburg - February 2009

Country Code: Dial for Germany

Germany’s second city is developing into a cultural hotspot, thanks to its thriving theatre scene, art galleries and museums. So even in February, when the weather can be cold and blustery, there are plenty of things to do inside. Stuart Forster braves the weather, however, and takes a stroll through the streets

Getting around

Hamburg Airport is 9km north-west of the city.

Bus: Coaches to the centre depart every 15 minutes from 6am to 7pm, then at 20-minute intervals until 11pm. Single tickets cost €5
Train: The airport doesn’t have a direct rail connection to the city centre. The nearest station is at Ohlsdorf, served by the S1 and S11 trains and U1 underground line. A single ticket is €2,60 and the journey takes 20 minutes.
Taxi: The journey to the city centre takes 20 minutes and costs about €16.
Tourist information: The main office is at Sankt Pauli Landungsbrücken, between bridges 4 and 5 (tel. , hamburgtourism. de).

SANKT PAULI

Known to locals by its nickname, the Kiez (town), this portside district is famed for its ethnic diversity and tolerance. At night, people teem along the Reeperbahn and into the side streets, which cater for a wide spectrum of tastes.

Sleep soundly – The smart, design-led East Hotel has a fusion restaurant and a good bar which is popular with non-residents.

Culture vultures – The art gallery Linda (13 Hein-Hoyer-Strasse) was named after a type of potato. There are new exhibitions every couple of weeks.

Must eat – For modern European cuisine and excellent service, head to Nil (5 Neuer Pferdemarkt, tel. ). Try the carpaccio of beef with black olives and shiitake mushrooms, or the braised leg of turkey stuffed with sautéed leeks, served with noodles. Puddings here are also good.

Must drink – The bars around Hans- Albers-Platz and along the Grosse Freiheit are always popular. Alternatively, Frau Hedis Landgang (3 Neuer Pferdemarkt) is a laid-back little place with a friendly feel to it.

Dance the night away – Uebel & Gefährlich (66 Feldstrasse), a nightclub located in a former air-raid protection bunker, hosts lots of live music.

SPEICHERSTADT AND HAFENCITY

The red-brick buildings of the Speicherstadt (warehouse quarter) were built in the 1800s and once stored duty-free goods from around the world. The area’s ongoing redevelopment of the waterfront HafenCity, will house 20,000 people by 2012.

Culture vultures – Miniatur Wunderland (2 Kehrwieder) has the biggest HO scale model railway exhibition in the world. A staggering 500,000 hours of labour went into the detailed landscapes which broaden its appeal beyond model-railway enthusiasts.

Must eat – The quayside ChilliClub (54 Am Sandtorkai, tel. ) serves Asian fusion food and doubles as a cocktail bar come evening.

SCHANZENVIERTEL

Until a few years ago, this was known primarily as a grimy, inner-city area with a slaughterhouse. It’s now a bohemian hangout and home to many of Hamburg’s most creative people, especially fashion designers.

Sleep soundly – The Fritzhotel has bright, modern rooms in cool neutrals with flashes of bold red.

Must eat – The district is dotted with chic cafés and restaurants. For a quick, filling snack like currywurst (pork sausage in a curry sauce) and fries, visit Schmitt Foxy Food (70 Schulterblatt), a takeaway which uses organic meat.

Must drink – The casual Dual Bar (53 Schanzenstrasse) pulls in a vibrant crowd of 20- and 30-somethings.

Shop til you drop – Chocofeh (92 Schulterblatt) is excellent for shoes and accessories.

ALTSTADT

The grand old buildings and profusion of shops here make this a popular daytime destination. The impressive Rathaus (town hall) boasts more rooms than Buckingham Palace.

Sleep soundly – The five-star Park Hyatt Hamburg is the last word in low-key luxe. The rooms here are all light wood and polished creams. The Apples Restaurant does good regional food in relaxed surroundings.

Culture vultures – Head for the Mikiko Sato Gallery (13 Klosterwall) for contemporary Japanese art and culture.

Must eat – Tucked away inside the Handelskammer (Chamber of Commerce), a historic building which oozes charm, the Pfeffersack restaurant (1 Adolphsplatz, tel. ) is the ideal spot if you fancy having a long lunch.

Compiled by Stuart Forster