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Portugal : Lisbon - February 2009

Country Code: Dial 1 for Portugal

Though not quite Rio, carnival is making a comeback in Lisbon. Expect lively parades in and around Parque das Nações during the last week of the month. And, given that it’s one of Europe’s sunniest capitals, February here can be gloriously bright. Matthew Hancock seeks out the hot spots

Getting around

Lisbon Airport

Bus: The Aerobus leaves every 20 minutes from 7.40am to 11pm and goes to the city centre, finishing at Cais do Sodré. Tickets cost €3 and can be bought onboard.
Taxi: It’s about a 20 minute taxi ride to the city centre. The fare costs approximately €15, with an extra charge for luggage in the boot. Prices increase by 20% at night and on weekends and bank holidays.
Tourist information: The Lisboa Welcome Centre is located at Praça do Comércio, on the corner of Rua do Arsenal (tel. , www.atl-turismolisboa.pt).

BAIRRO ALTO

Historically Lisbon’s bohemian quarter, this tight grid of streets positively thrums with a life, kicking off after 11pm.

Sleep soundly – Just below the Bairro Alto, the Hotel Bairro Alto is a stylish townhouse given a boutique makeover. It has a superb rooftop bar.

Culture vultures – The Capela de São João Baptista (Largo Trindade Coelho) in the church of São Roque is said to be the most expensive ever constructed. It’s a dazzling medley of precious stones and ivory.

Must eat – Louro e Sal (53 Rua da Atalaia, tel. ) serves excellent-value modern Portuguese cuisine, such as salmon with capers.

Must drink – Tasca do Chico (39 Rua do Diário de Notícias) has live fado (traditional Portuguese music) sessions on Monday and Wednesday evenings.

Shop til you drop – Fabric Infinit (74 Rua Dom Pedro V) sells one-off and designer jewellery and has its own zen garden café at the back.

SANTOS

Previously a rundown port area, Santos is being rebranded as the design district, with great shops, designer bars and restaurants.

Sleep soundly – Hotel Janelas Verdes exudes class, with plush rooms, a courtyard garden and River Tagus vistas from the top-floor library.

Culture vultures – Some of the bestknown names in European art can be seen at the superb Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga (95 Rua das Janelas Verdes), including Hieronymus Bosch’s chilling Temptation of St Anthony.

Must eat – Guarda Mor (8 Rua do Guarda Mor, tel. ) serves traditional dishes, such as prawns fried in lemon and salted cod cakes.

Must drink – Set in a former garage, Left Bar (3f Largo V Damásio) pulls in the punters with guest DJs.

Dance the night away – Kremlin (5 Escadinhas da Praia) keeps going right through until 8am.

Shop til you drop – Typical of Santos, Paris-Sete Concept (2a/b Largo V Damásio) stocks all you could want for a designer home, including toys and curios.

AVENIDA DA LIBERDADE

Lisbon’s grand central avenue, lined with palm trees, also shelters some of the city’s best shops and hotels.

Sleep soundly – The boutique Hotel Heritage Av Liberdade boasts giant rooms. The best ones are in the eaves and have superb city views.

Culture vultures – Priceless Chinese porcelain, 16th-century watches and glorious glazed tiles are just some of the highlights of the small Fundação Medeiros e Almeida museum (41 Rua Rosa Araújo).

Must eat – Ribadouro (155 Avenida da Liberdade, tel. ) serves some of the city’s finest prawns – get there early to bag a table.

Dance the night away – Hot Clube de Portugal (39 Praça da Alegria) is one of Europe’s oldest jazz clubs, attracting big international names most weeks.

Shop til you drop – The tiny Mistura de Estilos (21 Rua São José) stocks a superb array of individually crafted tiles, which make great gifts.

CAPARICA

Catch a bus out to Caparica, a great resort out of season, when the wild beach is largely deserted, apart from fishermen and surfers.

Sleep soundly – The characterful Hotel Real is a short walk from the beach.

Must eat – Barbas (Praia da Costa, tel. ) has recently moved into a smart wooden building on the seafront, but promises to maintain its reputation for great fish and seafood.

Must drink – Tarquinio Bar (Muralha da Praia) does great snacks and cocktails, and has deckchairs and beanbags for those sunny days.

Compiled by Matthew Hancock