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France : Nice - February 2009

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February brings about one of the Côte d’Azur’s most explosive seasons, as the fortnight-long Carnaval celebrations hit Nice (13 February – 1 March). Nearby Menton celebrates all things citrus with its annual Fête du Citron (13 February – 4 March). Kathryn Tomasetti dons her party shoes and picks the best coastal spots to soak up the winter sunshine

Getting around

Nice Côte d’Azur Airport is 7km west of the city centre.

Bus: The No.99 departs for Gare Routière, the central bus station just outside the old town, every 20 minutes. Tickets cost €4 and the journey takes about 30 minutes.
Taxi: The journey from the airport to the city centre takes 20 minutes and costs around €30.
Tourist information: The main office is at 5 Promenade des Anglais (tel. , nicetourisme.biz).

PROMENADE DES ANGLAIS

Winding majestically from the recently refurbished place Masséna to the eastern curve of Quai Rauba Capeu, the Promenade des Anglais is the place to catch the bulk of the Carnaval action.

Sleep soundly – Make like Matisse and book a sea-facing suite at the Hôtel Beau Rivage. It was while residing here in 1917 that the artist created his Les Batailles de Fleurs series, inspired by the Carnaval’s Battle of the Flowers.

Culture vultures – Nice’s Carnaval (nicecarnaval.com) sees two weeks of parades, dances and flower-covered floats. Be sure to purchase tickets, as most of the action is shielded from the non-paying public.

Must eat – Head into Nice’s nearby old town to sample some traditional dishes. La Fougasserie (5 Rue de la Poissonnerie, tel. ) serves up the city’s best fougasse, a soft pocket-bread dotted with anything from marinated artichokes to grilled aubergine. At the other end of the financial spectrum, the elegant Niçois environs of La Petite Maison (11 Rue Saint François de Paule, tel. ) cater to local starlets. The food is divine but its true pampering service is reserved for visiting celebrities, Nice local Elton John included.

THE PORT

Bustling year round, Nice’s historic port is ringed by a wide pedestrian walkway, antiquey boutiques, bobbing boats and more pavement cafés than you can shake a baguette at.

Must drink – A street back from the port, elegant Il Borghese (9 Rue Fodéré) mixes industrial strength cocktails at happy-hour prices from 6-9pm. For an authentic experience, grab a pichet (jug) of wine at Chez Pipo (13 Rue Bavastro) along with a plate of chickpea socca (chickpea pancakes), some anchoïde (anchovy dip) and pissaladière (onion pizza).

Shop til you drop – Get prepped for Menton’s Citrus Festival at Confiserie Florian (14 Quai Papacino), where you can pick up souvenirs of all things fruity, including candied mandarins, plum pâté and chocolatedipped lemon peel.

PLACE MASSÉNA & THE ZONE PIÉTONNE

Amble the labyrinth of pedestrianised streets that surround place Masséna, the heart of Nice’s shopping district.

Sleep soundly – Take advantage of the tail-end of the sales to hit Avenue Jean Médécin and pedestrianised Rue de France. You can find great bargains, without forgoing French flair, at Comptoir des Cotonniers and Les Néréides .

Dance the night away – Grab a mojito and salsa your way across La Bodeguita del Havana’s (14 Rue Chauvin) dance floor.

MENTON

Just half an hour from Nice, Menton is the Côte d’Azur’s eastern-most seaside town.

Sleep soundly – Enjoy Menton’s status as the sunniest city in France while relaxing in the tropical gardens of Hôtel Napoléon.

Culture vultures – The town’s Fête du Citron (feteducitron.com) celebrates the fact that Menton is France’s number one producer of citrus fruits. Look for the giant orange and lemon sculptures.

Must eat – Voted 2009’s chef of the year by France’s esteemed Gault Millau guide, Mauro Colagreco serves up his own gourmet extravaganza at Mirazur (30 Avenue Aristide Briand, Menton, tel. ). Or sample homemade marmalades and chutneys and tapenade (olive pâté) at L’Arche des Confitures de la Maison Herbin (2 Rue Palmaro, Menton, tel. ).

Compiled by Kathryn Tomasetti