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Portugal : Porto - February 2009

Country Code: Dial 1 for Portugal

February is a busy month in Porto, as the fun and frolics of the annual carnival give way to Fantasporto (fantasporto.com), the city’s world-renowned film festival. (This year, the festival runs from 20 February – 1 March.) You might not be basking on the beach this month, but downtown Porto has more than enough to keep winter visitors happily diverted, says Paul Blaney

Getting around

Francisco Sá Carneiro Airport

Bus: The 601 bus runs to the city centre every half hour, the 602 runs every 15 minutes. The journey takes about an hour and tickets cost €1.30.
Train: The metro runs into the airport terminal and takes 25 minutes to reach the city centre. Tickets cost €1.35. Trains run from 6.00am to 1.00am.
Taxi: A taxi to the town centre costs about €20 and will take approximately 20 minutes.
Tourist information: 25 Rua Clube dos Fenianos (tel.//, www.visitportugal.com).

RIBEIRA

This waterfront bairro of narrow alleys, bars, shops and restaurants slopes steeply down to the River Douro.

Culture vultures – The venerable Museu do Vinho do Porto (Port Wine Museum, 45-52 Rua de Monchique), housed in an 18th-century warehouse, is a fascinating resource for visitors who are curious about the production, history and consumption of Portugal’s best-loved drink.

Must eat – Restaurante Chez Lapin (40-42 Rua dos Canastreiros, tel. ) is a cosy choice on a cold evening. Warming dishes include Portuguese stews and grills, plus there’s a good selection of local cheeses.

Must drink – Vinologia (aka La Maison des Porto, 46 Rua São João) in the heart of Ribeira, is an intimate, atmospheric wine bar-cum-shop that’s dedicated entirely to port.

Shop til you drop – PortoSigns (17 Rua da Alfândega) is an Aladdin’s cave of T-shirts, books, ceramics, cork pieces and other regional souvenirs.

BAIXA

With its ornate pavements and imposing architecture, the downtown area is great to explore on foot.

Sleep soundly – The Rivoli Cinema Hostel is Portugal’s first cinema-themed hostel, with each of its 12 rooms dedicated to a different film. The hostel is also ideally located for Fantasporto screenings at the adjacent Rivoli Theatre.

Culture vultures – The Café Majestic (112 Rua Santa Catarina) is a Porto institution and monument to the Belle Epoque. The ornate café also has a downstairs art gallery.

Must eat – A downtown favourite is Al Forno Baixa (156 Rua Rodrigues Sampaio), a bright, airy restaurant with a wide selection of meat, fish and vegetarian dishes at competitive prices.

Dance the night away – Armazém do Chá (180 Rua José Falcão), a former tea warehouse, turns from a café-bar by day into a great after dinner haunt with live music and DJs.

BOAVISTA

This vibrant commercial district is home to a wide array of shops and is also where Porto’s ‘other’ football team is based.

Sleep soundly – The five-star Sheraton Porto Hotel & Spa is a welllocated de-luxe option.

Culture vultures – A new icon on Porto’s cultural scene is the Casa de Música (604-610 Avenida da Boavista), a state-of-the-art venue for jazz, baroque and symphonic music by the Portuguese National Orchestra.

Must eat – Porto Beer (1245 avenida da Boavista, tel. ) is a barrestaurant with cool, monchrome décor. Order the francesinha (a ham or steak sandwich covered in melted cheese).

Shop til you drop – Nuno Baltazar (856 Avenida da Boavista) is the showcase for one of Portugal’s most fashionable young designers.

FOZ

Porto’s beach district, north of the Douro, is especially lively after dark.

Culture vultures – The Museu de Arte Contemporânea de Serralves (210 Rua D João de Castro) is Portugal’s premier contemporary art museum. It also has state-of-the-art design and elegantly landscaped gardens.

Must eat – Restaurante Shis (Esplanada do Castelo, tel. ) has a great beachside location and serves fresh sushi.

Dance the night away – Twin’s (1000 Rua do Passeio Alegre) is a bar, lounge and disco, where you are guaranteed to catch a DJ set or live show any night of the week.

Shop til you drop – Whether you’re interested in wallpaper or books, vinyl or CDs, Era uma vez no Porto (Once upon a time in Porto), 550 Rua do Passeio Alegre) is a smart place to shop. It even serves tea and drinks.

Compiled by Paul Blaney