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Israel : Tel Aviv - February 2009

Country Code: Dial 2 for Israel

In stark contrast to most of northern Europe, Tel Aviv in February is balmy and gets plenty of sun. As the city gears up for its annual Jazz and Blues Festival (which runs from 24 – 27 February) Noam Dvir tells us what else is going on

Getting around

Ben Gurion International Airport is 20km south-east of Tel Aviv.

Train: There’s a train station outside the terminal. The journey to the city centre takes 20 minutes and a single ticket costs €2/NIS 12.
Taxi: A taxi from the airport to the city centre takes about 20 minutes and should cost no more than €17-21/ NIS 100-120.
Tourist information: The main office is at 46 Herbert Samuel Street (tel. , visit-tlv.co.il).

NORTH DIZENGOFF

The posh part of Dizengoff street stretches from Ben Gurion Boulevard up to the harbour. Lined with dark green ficus trees, it’s perfect for sipping coffee and shopping.

Sleep soundly – The Center Hotel provides a boutique experience in a restored Bauhaus building which is right on Dizengoff square.

Culture vultures – Contemporary art lovers must pay a visit to Rosenfeld Gallery (147 Dizengoff), which exhibits young Israeli artists.

Must eat – Freshly caught seafood is served daily from 12pm to 2am in Goocha (171 Dizengoff, tel. ), offering great prices and terrific views of the boulevard. The Espresso Bar (166 Dizengoff, tel. ), just on the other corner of the street, has won several international prizes for its monochrome design. Tables are often hard to get.

Shop til you drop – Elegant young professionals pick David Sassoon (170 Dizengoff) for semi-couture clothing. If you’re looking for retro collections, try Naama Bezalel (234 Dizengoff).

BAZEL SQUARE

This gorgeous square, hidden between two main roads, is full of small cafés and boutiques.

Must eat – Even on winter days, icecream parlour Vaniglia (38 Ashtori Haparhi) is packed. Go for either the basil or cognac flavour.

Shop til you drop – Jazz enthusiasts will feel at home in Jazzland (20 Ashtori Haparhi), which has a large collection of rare CDs and daily performances. DL (34 Bazel) sells stylish accessories by local designer Daniella Lehavi.

JAFFA

Built in 1906 to commemorate the 25th anniversary of a Turkish sultan’s accession, the Jaffa Clock Tower dominates the entrance to the historical city. The whole area is going through intense redevelopment, due to the real-estate boom in Jaffa.

Sleep soundly – The Old Jaffa Hostel is a truly charming two-star hotel, attracting a large range of visitors, from young backpackers to pilgrims. Great for anyone looking for an alternative to those big-name hotels along the beach.

Must eat – Try the shakshuka (a traditional dish made from mashed tomatoes, hot peppers and egg yolks), served in steaming pans) at Dr Shakshuka (3 Beit Eshel st, tel. ). Otherwise, try their fried fish, grilled lamb or couscous with mafrum (potato stuffed with cinnamonscented beef), served with pitta and salad on the side.

Shop til you drop – Dar Faz (33 Raziel st) sells original furniture and home wares imported from Morocco.

NAHALAT BENYAMIN

Situated in the historical heart of the city, Nahalat Benyamin is a popular pedestrian area, packed with textile shops, restaurants and cafés. The buildings surrounding it have been built in true Tel Aviv style – an eclectic combination of art deco and Arabic elements.

Culture vultures – The Arts and Crafts Market (which stretches from the corner of Allenby st to Gruzenberg st, Tuesdays and Fridays, 10am-5pm) features an excellent bazaar which sells good art, souvenirs and gifts. It also plays host to street-theatre acts, musicians and palm readers. The Pillars House (12 Rambam st) is one of the architectural icons of the area. It has recently been transformed into a chic art gallery.

Must eat – The outdoors Basta (4 Hashomer st, tel. ) serves tapas and cava, and attracts a beautiful young crowd looking to eat a light dinner. LovEAT café (3 Nahalat Benyamin st) is a good place to go to enjoy all things organic, including organic, shade-grown coffee.

Shop til you drop – Actor Amikam Levy’s interest in retro furniture led him to opening his own shop, which is crammed with 50s and 60s goodies, Amikam (8 Rambam st).

Compiled by Noam Dvir