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Italy : Venice - February 2009

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The Venice Carnival seemed in a state of terminal decline by the 70s, but as a result of a kind of local spontaneous combustion it took off again in the early 80s. Now it attracts thousands of visitors. This year’s event runs from 13-24 February. Roderick Conway Morris braces himself

Getting around

Marco Polo International Airport.

Taxi: A road taxi from the airport to Piazzale Roma costs about €30. A water taxi will cost approximately €90.
Tourist information: The most helpful tourist office is the Venice Pavilion on the St Mark’s waterfront (, www.turismovenezia.it).
Ferry: Alilaguna ferries go from the airport to Piazza San Marco for €12 (or €25 for the fast, direct service on the Alilaguna Oro). Alternatively, buses cost €3 and stop at Piazzale Roma, opposite the train station. From here, hop on a vaporetto (water bus) to your hotel. One ticket costs €6. The 24-hour pass costs €15.

SAN MARCO

Napoleon called St Mark’s Square “the most elegant drawing room in Europe”.

Must eat – Tucked away in a little courtyard behind the Frezzaria is Osteria Da Carla (1535 Corte Contarina, ), which has a good selection of cold snacks and hot dishes.

Must drink – Founded in 1720, Caffè Florian (56 Piazza San Marco) is the place to show off your carnival costume, especially if it matches the décor.

Dance the night away – The festivities at Bar Torino (459 Campo San Luca) tend to spill out onto the square in front.

Shop til you drop – The narrow Frezzaria (Arrow-makers’ or Fletchers’ Street) behind St Mark’s Square still has little bars and delicatessens and some classy independent boutiques. Look into MA.RE (1586 San Marco) for modern designer glass and jewellery, and Jade Martine (1645 San Marco) for divinely decadent lingerie.

RIALTO

There’s been a market here for at least 1,500 years and the fish, fruit and stalls are still going strong.

Must eat – There are numerous bars and small eateries. Three of the best are: Sacro e Profano (502 Calle del Parangon, ), where Valerio and his sister Sara serve Venetian and Tuscan food and wines; Osteria Bancogiro (122 Campo San Giacometto, ) in the arcade of shops backing onto the Grand Canal, which offers both tasty snacks and more substantial dishes; Alla Madonna (594 Calle della Madonna, ) a lively trattoria specialising in seafood and where you can find classic Venetian favorites.

Shop til you drop – Venice’s only department store, Coin (5787 Salizzada San Giovanni Grisostomo) offers stylish Italian clothes, accessories and household goods.

CAMPO SANTA MARGHERITA

The heart of the Dorsoduro district, this spacious square is the home of food stalls, a meeting place for the locals and a children’s playground during the day. After dark. it becomes one of the city’s liveliest nightspots.

Sleep soundly – The peaceful, canalside Locanda San Barnaba is one of Venice’s most charming and welcoming hotels.

Culture vultures – Less like visiting a gallery than a magnificent private palazzo, Ca’ Rezzonico (3136 Fondamenta Rezzonico) is Venice’s museum of the 18th century, the period during which the carnival was at its most elaborate and flamboyant.

Must eat – The pastry shop with the best fritelle (traditional Venetian Carnival doughnuts) in town is Tonolo (3764 Calle San Pantalon). The ones that are filled with zabaglione are simply exquisite.

CANNAREGIO

On the first Saturday of the carnival, this neighourhood stages an annual procession of boats along the Cannaregio Canal, which links the Grand Canal to the northern lagoon.

Sleep soundly – The Boscolo Grand Hotel Dei Dogi with its marble halls, frescoes, chandeliers and private garden, was once the French Embassy. It’s now one of the city’s most luxurious hotels.

Must eat – The canal running past the northern edge of the old Jewish Ghetto has numerous bars and trattorias along its length. One of the most friendly and popular is the cosy Osteria Bea Vita (3082 Fondamenta delle Cappuccine, ), where the regulars tuck into traditional hot dishes.

Shop til you drop – Stage and film costumier Stefano Nicolao, whose list of movie credits include The Wings of the Dove, Elizabeth and Casanova, rents and sells the most stylish costumes for the Venice Carnival from his vast collection at Nicolao Atelier (2590 Fondamenta della Misericordia).

Compiled by Roderick Conway Morris