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Italy : Bologna - March 2009

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Springtime in Bologna sees the city’s squares fill up with people enjoying the weather, the food and the conversation. There’s also the opportunity to find out about the ‘Italian Indiana Jones’ at the Archaeological Museum’s exhibition, Giovanni Battista Belzoni: An Indiana Jones Rediscovering Egypt. Massimo Benvegnù goes exploring

Getting around

Guglielmo Marconi Airport is 6km outside the city

Bus: A shuttle bus runs from the airport to the train station every 15 minutes. The journey takes about 20 minutes and costs €5. Other buses serve Modena and Siena.
Taxi: The journey to the city centre takes about 20 to 30 minutes and costs about €18.
Tourist information: The main office is in Piazza Maggiore (9660).

PIAZZA MAGGIORE

Bologna’s biggest tourist attractions are all here, in its main square. But if you venture inside the maze of side streets that surround it, you’ll find several hidden gems.

Sleep soundly – With its killer location and cosy atmosphere, Art Hotel Orologio (10 Via IV Novembre, , bolognahotels.it, rooms from €145) is the perfect base from which to explore the old city.

Culture vultures – Architect Antonio di Vincenzo wanted to build a church that was bigger than St Peter’s in Rome, but the Vatican forced him to stop. Still, San Petronio (Piazza Maggiore) is the fifth largest church in the world, even if its façade has been left unfinished for centuries. A few steps away is the Archiginnasio, the university’s first location, now a museum. Its cloisters are usually buzzing with exhibitions and live music performances. The Museo Civico Archeologico (2 Via Archiginnasio) is hosting an exhibition about Giovanni Battista Belzoni until 31 May. Nicknamed ‘the Italian Indiana Jones’, this eccentric individual was the first westerner to organise an exhibition of Ancient Egyptian artefacts in London (they were shown in 1821). He was also a circus strongman!

Must eat – For sweet indulgences, Duca D’Amalfi (3/a Piazza dei Celestini) is considered by many to be the best patisserie in Bologna. Purchase croissants, cannoli and sfogliatelle (both are filled pastries) here.

Must drink – A sudden departure from the medieval atmosphere of Bologna’s streets, Cafè Le Palais (4 Via de’Musei) is a must-stop for fashion mavens. Sip French tea alongside a chi-chi crowd.

PIAZZA OBERDAN

Slightly less touristy than Piazza Maggiore, Piazza Oberdan is a charming spot where you can shop, walk or just sit outside a café and watch Bolognese life pass by.

Must drink – Caffè de Terzi (10 Via Oberdan) serves the best espresso in Bologna.

Shop til you drop – For fine Bolognese food, head straight to Bruno e Franco (16 Via Oberdan). It’s considered a must by local foodies – stock up on ham, salami and, of course, bologna. And don’t forget to pick up some parmesan cheese at Il Regno della Forma (45 Via Oberdan).

PIAZZA SANTO STEFANO

Some say it’s the most romantic part of town, as in the evening many young couples come and sit on the Santo Stefano square.

Culture vultures – Also known as Sette Chiese (‘the seven churches’; four of them survive), the Basilica di Santo Stefano (24 Via Santo Stefano) is said to house the basin in which Pontius Pilate washed his hands after condemning Christ to death.

Must eat – Gelateria da Gianni (14 via S Stefano) serves the richest ice cream in town. Don’t ask for vanilla – instead enjoy Gianni’s exquisite, exotic creations. But be warned: you might want to skip dinner afterwards!

Must drink – Choose from a long list of red and whites at the Godot Wine Bar (12 Via Cartoleria).

PIAZZA DI PORTA RAVEGNANA

Perhaps Bologna’s most famous buildings, the medieval Two Towers were erected here by local families, as monuments to their prestige. If you’re willing to climb the 498 steps to the top of the Asinelli Tower, you’ll get a great view of the city.

Sleep soundly – Located right next to the Two Towers is the cosy Albergo Garisenda (1 Galleria del Leone, tel. , albergogarisenda.com, rooms from €75). It has only seven rooms, so you should book in advance.

Must drink – Try the Jazz Cafè (3 Galleria Giovanni Acquaderni) for good coffee or a light brunch.

Shop til you drop – Tamburini (1 Via Caprarie) is the place to get your hands on freshly made cannelloni and lasagne, while Attibassi (1 Via Drapperie) is a bakery that also makes excellent tortellini and focaccia.

Compiled by Massimo Benvegnù