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Italy : Florence - March 2009

Country Code: Dial for Italy

Early spring can still be chilly in the Renaissance city, but the light on the River Arno is guaranteed to be luminous. And this month Florence – so often accused of being arrested in time – is showcasing the best in new Italian art, with work by the Emerging Talents finalists. Kamin Mohammadi looks forward

Getting around

Florence Peretola

Bus: Vola In Bus departs from outside the airport to Stazione Santa Maria Novella every 30 minutes. Tickets cost €4,50.
Taxi: A taxi from the airport into the city centre takes 20 minutes and costs about €16.
Tourist information: The main tourist information point is at 29r Borgo Santa Croce. There is also one in the piazza outside Santa Maria Novella Stazione and at 1r Via Cavour (www.firenzeturismo.it).

SAN LORENZO

Here you’ll find Florence’s largest market, teeming with tourists and leather stalls. There’s also the covered market, where you can buy everything from pigs’ trotters to fresh

Sleep soundly – Stylish rooms in two adjacent 15th-century palaces, the walls of Il Guelfo Bianco (29 Via Cavour, tel. , ilguelfobianco.it, rooms from €160) feature vibrant contemporary art.

Culture vultures – The magnificent palace of the Medici, the Palazzo Medici Riccardi (Via Cavour), houses stunning frescoes and works by important artists.

Must eat – A market institution, Da Mario (2 Via Rosina, tel. ) might have a queue, but the hearty food is well worth waiting for.

Must drink – Squeeze into tiny wine bar Casa del Vino (16 Via dell’Ariento), hidden behind the market stalls, for a glass of wine and market chatter.

Shop til you drop – I Medici (82 Via dei Servi) has beautiful leather bags.

OLTRARNO

From the verdant grounds of the Palazzo Pitti, to the laid-back neighbourhood around Santo Spirito, this side of the river features Florence at its earthy, authentic best.

Culture vultures – The city’s green lungs, this month life returns to the Boboli Gardens (Pitti Palace) as spring brings forth blossoms and blooms.

Must eat – Off the Piazza Santo Spirito, La Casalinga (9 Via Michelozzi, tel. ) serves up traditional Tuscan fare to a noisy crowd.

Must drink – With a cosy interior for blustery weather and a great terrace for balmy spring days, Rifullo (55 Via San Niccolo) is popular with lively locals.

Shop til you drop – Le Coyote (54 Via San Niccolo) is a perfect little workshop where the unique hats and bags on sale are produced by hand on the premises.

PIAZZA DEL DUOMO AND SIGNORIA

The heart of historic Florence is home to the cathedral, the largest piazzas in the city, and the best museums.

Sleep soundly – With its frescoes and bas-reliefs, staying at the Four Seasons Hotel (99 Borgo Pinti, , fourseasons.com, rooms from €500) is a bit like living in a museum.

Culture vultures – New Italian art is showcased at the Palazzo Strozzi (Piazza Strozzi, closed Mondays), sponsor of the Emerging Talents competition, showing until 29 March.

Must eat – Once a favourite of Sophia Loren, Oliviero (51 Via delle Terme, tel. ) is still in fashion, serving traditional dishes with a twist.

Must drink – Not only is the terrace great for people-watching, but Caffe Rivoire (5 Piazza della Signoria) serves the richest hot chocolate in town.

Dance the night away – Established club YAB (5 Via Sassetti) is still one of the trendiest in town. Saturday nights are the busiest.

Shop til you drop – Divine stationery and leather briefcases and notebooks make Pineider (13 Piazza della Signoria) a writer’s heaven.

SANTA CROCE

The area around the vast Piazza Santa Croce hums with life at all hours. It houses one of the city’s richest medieval churches.

Sleep soundly – The charming Martin Dago B&B (84 via de’Macci, , bbmartindago.com, rooms from €80) is hard to beat for value and style, with individually decorated rooms complete with frescoes, and a terrace for breakfasting on.

Culture vultures – Visit Santa Croce church (Piazza Santa Croce) and the tombs of some of the Renaissance’s most famous sons – Dante and Michelangelo, for example.

Must eat – Always full and bustling with locals and market people, Da Rocca (inside Sant’Ambrogio market) serves traditional Tuscan dishes at very reasonable prices.

Shop til you drop – Delicious hand-made chocolates in every flavour under the sun are sold at Bottega del Cioccolato (50 Via de’Macci).

Compiled by Kamin Mohammadi