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Italy : Milan - March 2009

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Early spring in Milan sees locals shaking the snow off their suede loafers and enjoying a return to pavement culture and people-watching. It’s not just watching each other, though – there’s an arty edge to the Lombard capital. The Pinacoteca marks its 200th birthday with a Caravaggio exhibition (until 29 March) that has the city in quite a tizz. Edward Carter joins the queue

Getting around

The nearest airport is Malpensa, 48km from the city centre.

Bus: A shuttle-bus runs from the airport to Centrale station. The 50-minute journey costs €4,50, with buses leaving every 20 minutes between 4.30am and 12.15am.
Train: The Malpensa Express runs from the airport to central Milan, taking around 40 minutes and costing €11.
Taxi: A taxi into central Milan takes about an hour and costs €75.
Tourist information: The main office is at 19a Piazza Duomo ( , milanoinfo.eu).

NAVIGLI

Milan’s canals are home to long parades of bars buzzing with lively locals and quirky, independent shops.

Must eat – The Osteria Al Pesciolino Fritto (62 Alzaia Naviglio Grande, , closed Mondays) is a very popular fried-fish specialist, with a nicely rustic ambience and chatty staff. Nicola Cavallaro al San Cristoforo (11 Via Lodovico Il Moro, , closed Sundays) is a meatier option, serving classic northern Italian dishes with a creative twist, courtesy of one of the city’s best chefs.

Must drink – Among Milan’s most popular aperitivo bars, Slice (9 Via Ascanio Sforza) gets very busy come evening time. If you can’t get a seat there, you should try the nearby StraRipa Bar Art & Friends (19 Ripa di Porta Ticinese).

Shop til you drop – The Antiquario Sul Naviglio markets (Naviglio Grande, Viale Gorizia, Via Valenza) take place on the last Sunday morning of every month, except July and August, with stall-holders selling everything from top-end antiques to bric-a-brac. The Zona Tortona (Via Tortona, Via Savona and surrounding streets) is Milan’s trendiest area. It brings together the best of the city’s contemporary art scene, with plenty of work for sale.

BRERA

Bar hopping around this network of cobbled streets is something of a Milanese must, though thankfully the little quarter retains its wellheeled boho feel.

Sleep soundly – The Hotel Star (5 Via dei Bossi, , hotelstar.it, rooms from €169) strikes a nice balance between the hip and the homely, while the Hotel Cavour (21 Via Fatebenefratelli, , hotelcavour.it, rooms from €140) is a swish, business-minded bolt hole.

Culture vultures – The Pinacoteca di Brera (28 Via Brera) has begun celebrating its bicentenary with a tribute to Caravaggio (running until 29 March).

VENEZIA

Just to the south of the Duomo, this is a lively district famed for its antique shops.

Culture vultures – The Spazio Oberdan (2 Viale Vittorio Veneto) is a multi-functional art space, with exhibition halls and a 200-seat cinema, which is the main screening venue for the Italian Film Archive.

Must eat – For a leisurely bite of pizza or other classic Italian comfort food, head for Portobello (29 Via Plinio, , closed Mondays). La Bistecca (5 Via Paracelso, , closed Mondays and Tuesday lunchtimes) is a superior pasta joint, with a nice local drop-in feel.

Shop til you drop – Head to Via Pisacane for antique shops, including Fabrizio Pazienza (with a shop at No. 53) and Silvio Fossati Bellani (No. 40). Racing enthusiasts should pull up at the Libreria dell’Automobile (43 Corso Venezia), a specialist bookstore stocking motorsport titles.

MOSCOVA

Populated by designer shops and smart eateries, Moscova is a more relaxed alternative to the hustle of the centro.

Must eat – Kitchen (7 Via Domenico Scarlatti, ) is a popular pizzeria with the twist of being Chineseowned and run. It also serves a mean risotto alla Milanese – the city’s signature risotto, made with saffron, beef marrow and parmesan. Moscatelli (93 Corso Giuseppe Garibaldi, tel. , closed Sundays) is a winebar- cum-restaurant that dishes up steaming plates of ravioli al tartufo (ravioli stuffed with truffles) to an appreciative local crowd.

Shop til you drop – Princi (5 Piazza XXV Aprile) is a hugely popular, chic bakery, where you can stock up on wholemeal goodies. But be prepared to queue (and barge in). For designer homeware from around the globe, try Arform (22 Via Moscova), ideal for buying a one-off gift.

Compiled by Edward Carter