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Italy : Naples - March 2009

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Naples is a city where churches and pizzerias sit side by side. And, while the average Neapolitan is happy to let all that history be a backdrop to everyday life, there’s still a huge amount of pride in the city’s cultural riches – from the Archaeological Museum to its grand cafés. And March, when the weather is pleasantly warm rather than sultry and stultifying, is the ideal time to explore. Matt Barker enjoys the best of both worlds

Getting around

Naples International Airport at Capodichino.

Bus: The Alibus runs directly from the airport to Stazione Centrale every 20 minutes. Tickets cost €3. The orange bus (the 3S) runs every 25 minutes. Tickets are from €1.
Taxi: A taxi from the airport to the centre costs around €13. An Artecard (costs from €13) is a good option giving you free travel plus some museum entry. You can buy it at the airport when you arrive (www.campaniartecard.it)
Tourist information: Go to the TEPT Office at Stazione Centrale, Piazza Garibaldi, www.eptnapoli.info)

CHIAIA

Naples does posh in this well-heeled district leading down to the waterfront, with its exclusive shops, swanky bars and polished restaurants.

Must drink – Gambrinus (1-2 via Chiaia) is Naples’ most venerable café, serving good coffee and cake by day, and cocktails at night. Nearby, Fonoteca (31 Via Morghen) offers a rather more lively alternative, with its blaring music and inquisitive locals.

Shop til you drop – Most of the highend consumerism here centres around the glitzy Via Chiaia, where you’ll find the usual designer label suspects and some smaller, independent stores, with Tramontano (at No. 143) specialising in handmade handbags and Fusaro (No. 32) catering for the well-dressed gent.

SAN DOMENICO MAGGIORE

Pretty much bang in the middle of the centro, this square offers a typically multi-layered Neapolitan history lesson. Dating from the 14th century, it’s lined with architecture and sculpture from many eras since.

Culture vultures – The tiny Capella Sansevero (17-21 Via Francesco de Sanctis, closed Tuesdays) can often be overlooked, but is well worth a visit for its marvellously OTT interior, with baroque fittings and coloured marble. While downstairs in the crypt, two bodies that were embalmed in the 18th century add to the spooky ambience.

Must drink – The Gran Caffè Aragonese (5-8 Piazza San Domenico Maggiore) is one of the city’s best spots for a coffee (try the espresso made with vanilla ice cream), with both wine and cocktails on offer come the evenings. Scaturchio (19 Piazza San Domenico Maggiore) is another popular pit-stop, with the added attraction of a counter laden with tempting cakes.

PIAZZA BELLINI

In the heart of the centro, Bellini is an engaging combination of buzzy social activity and more cultural pursuits.

Culture vultures – The huge Museo Archeologico Nazionale (19 Piazza Museo) is justly a source of great civic pride, with its huge collection including, famously, items excavated from Pompeii. The current exhibition of remarkable sculptures from Herculaneum is not to be missed.

Must eat – Of course, you can’t go to Naples without eating some pizza – it just wouldn’t be right. Try Pizzeria Bellini (79-80 Via Santa Maria di Costantinopoli, tel. ), with its outside seating area. Or there’s the Antica Pizzeria Port’ Alba (18 Via Port’Alba, tel. ), which can trace its roots back to the 18th century and remains a mecca for lovers of the traditional dough disc.

Must drink – For a leisurely cocktail, head for Intra Moenia (70 Piazza Bellini). The bookshelves and brickwork here were excavated from the city’s Ancient Greek walls. Bourbon Street (52-53 Via Bellini) is a Neapolitan take on Southern States hospitality, with occasional live music providing an enjoyable soundtrack.

VOMERO

Up in the hills, Vomero is more relaxed than the centro storico, with its chilled park life and leafy charm.

Sleep soundly – Overlooking the bustle of the centro, the Ranch Palace Hotel (78 Via Guantai ad Orsolone, tel. , ranchpalacehotel.it, rooms from €95) is a real getaway, with modern, sleek, if rather basic, rooms. At the southern tip of the area, the Hotel Britannique (133 Corso Vittorio Emanuele, tel. , hotelbritannique. it, rooms from €125) is set in a grand townhouse, with Louis XVI-style décor.

Must drink – For a bit of live music and some excellent cocktails, try Noir (58 Vico Acitillo), a jazzy, spirited venue. Harnold’s (37 Via Foria Mario) is a popular pub with outside tables and a decent menu if you’re feeling peckish.

Compiled by Matt Barker