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Italy : Palermo - March 2009

Country Code: Dial for Italy

Palermo has been fought over by Phoenicians Arabs, Normans and Spaniards, and the city reflects these influences in its architecture, people and food. On 19 March the Feast of San Giuseppe is held to honour Palermo’s patron saint, so Chicca Moretti joins the party

Getting around

Palermo International Airport

Bus: The Prestia e Comande bus service runs to and from Palermo. It takes about 50 minutes and tickets cost €5.
Train: A bus to the central station runs every half hour. Tickets cost €5.
Taxi: A taxi to the city centre costs about €40.
Tourist information: The main office is at 34 Piazza Castelnuovo (, palermo tourism.com).

QUATTRO CANTI

The ‘four corners’ square at the intersection of Corso Vittorio Emanuele and Via Maqueda is at the centre of the city’s historic district.

Sleep soundly – Sleep like a prince or princess in a castle dating from the 11th century, still lit by torches. Palazzo Conte Federico (4 Via dei Biscottari, Palermo, , conte federico.com, rooms from €150) is also still inhabited by aristocrats – the Count and Countess will greet you on arrival.

Culture vultures – Also known as the Royal Palace, the 12th-century Norman Palace and Palatine Chapel (Piazza Indipendenza) is an ode to Norman-Arab style – the chapel never fails to dazzle.

Must eat – For authentic grilled meat and fish, try Casa del Brodo (175 Corso Vittorio Emanuele, tel. ), which serves local specialities.

Shop til you drop – The jewellery shop Hall Shop Gallery (97/99 Via E. Amari) specialises in using traditional techniques to work with pearl and coral. An example of traditional Sicilian jewellery, the coral pieces are stunning.

KALSA

The Kalsa district has more history than some entire cities. Construction began in the 9th century and the area still has a distinctly Arab flavour, with bags of medieval atmosphere.

Culture vultures – Dating from 12th century and built in Palermo’s distinctive Norman-Arab style, the Magione Church (Piazza Magione) has an unmissable cloister. The Botanical Gardens (2b Via Lincoln) is the oldest in this part of Europe, and starts to burst with blooms in the wonderful Sicilian spring.

Must eat – A local institution, Antica Focacceria San Francesco (58 Via Paternostro, tel. ) serves local specialities such as capaonato (aubergine stew), panelle (chickpea fritters) and arancine (stuffed rice balls).

Must drink – In a 13th-century building, Cana Enoteca (105 Via Alloro) is the place for a glass of superb Sicilian wine.

Shop til you drop – As well as a bar and restaurant, Kursaal Kalhesa (21 Foro Umberto I) is also a bookshop, attracting the city’s intelligentsia to browse and then discuss books over a drink.

MAQUEDA

The Via Maqueda spans Palermo’s historic centre, as well as some of its 19th-century districts. The street includes the train station and some of Palermo’s best shopping.

Sleep soundly – The elegant and contemporary Hotel Palazzo Opera (2 Via N. Gallo, , hotelplazaopera.com, rooms from €249) has clean modern lines and a good eye for detail, plus attentive service.

Culture vultures – One of Italy’s most famous opera houses, the Teatro Massimo (Piazza Verdi), is also one of the largest, and is said to be haunted by the ghost of a nun.

Must eat – Simple home cooking is the order of the day at Trattoria Trapani (16 Piazza Giulio Cesare, no phone). Situated by the train station, just a few euros spent here will get you a jug of local wine, squid and pasta.

Must drink – As the evenings get milder, it’s tempting to venture on to the terrace of Bottiglieria del Massimo (59 Via Spinuzza) for a glass of good local vino.

LA VUCCIRIA

The warren of streets filled with an ancient market give this area its intense and lively character. Step back in time to see a Sicily that’s changed very little for centuries.

Sleep soundly – Palermo’s historic hotel, the Grand Hotel et Des Palmes (398 Via Roma, , hotel-despalmes.it, rooms from €189) has beautifully restored rooms with modern comforts.

Must eat – Ristorante Sant’Andrea (4 Piazza Sant’Andrea, tel. ) has earned a Michelin star for its innovative dishes. Come here for regional food such as spaghetti with sea urchins, served in wood and stone surroundings.

Shop til you drop – Explore the Vucciria market (Piazza San Domenico) and its maze of small streets to be transported back to medieval Sicily. Visit old-fashioned bakery Bread Forreria (29 Via Bonacorso) for its signature bread with sesame, raisin or anis, toasted to perfection.

Compiled by Chicca Moretti