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Belgium : Brussels - April 2009

Country Code: Dial for Belgium

Brussels’ cultural calendar is as tumultuous as its weather in April – cutting-edge art with a shock factor comes to town, Europe’s best techno club turns 15 and mere mortals get the rare privilege to peek inside royal gardens. Nina Lamparski joins the bedlam to find out where to go and what to do during this busy month

Getting around

Brussels Airport

Bus: The No 12 bus runs every 30 minutes between the airport and Rond-Point Schuman. The journey takes about 30 minutes. A oneway ticket costs €3.
Train: Trains from the airport run every 20 minutes at peak times. The journey takes 15 minutes and trains go to Brussels’ three mainline stations. Tickets cost approximately €2,80
Taxi: A taxi from the airport to the city centre will cost around €25-35. The journey should take about 25 minutes.
Tourist information: The main tourist office can be found on Grand’Place in the city centre (tel. , www.brussels.

MÉRODE

Located behind the headquarters of the European Commission, this leafy, historical neighbourhood is home to embassies, the majestic Cinquantenaire monument and its splendid park, as well as many great shops.

Sleep soundly – For great views of the Cinquantenaire Park and early morning walks, choose the four-star Best Western Premier Park Hotel (21 Avenue de l’Yser, tel. , parkhotelbrussels.be, rooms from €99), right across from this green urban space. If you prefer smaller, more exclusive places, check in at gorgeous Monty Small Design Hotel (101 Brand Whitlock Boulevard, tel. , monty-hotel.be, rooms from €99).

Culture vultures – The Triumphal Arch, which towers over Cinquantenaire Park, was built in the early 20th century as a monument to Brussels’ glorious past. The beautiful iron and glass halls on both sides of the construction celebrate stunning, turn-of-the-century industrial architecture. The southern edifice is home to the Autoworld Museum (autoworld.be) and features old-fashioned cars, while the northern one houses the Royal Museum of Military History (klm-mra.be). In spring and summer, the park bustles with city dwellers seeking out the sun.

Must eat – On a sunny day, grab a sizzling sausage at the Lanssens butcher shop (67 Rue des Tongres, tel. ) before enjoying a sensational Spéculoos ice cream from Délices de Capoue (36 Avenue des Celtes, tel. ). Good things come to those who wait, so prepare to queue at both addresses.

Shop til you drop – Few streets in Brussels offer better retail therapy than the Rue des Tongres, right beside the Mérode metro station. Lined with fashion stores, interior design boutiques and beauty salons, the strip is less crowded than inner city shopping hubs but offers a similar variety of brands. Bord de Seine (236 Rue de Linthout) sells Belgian designer labels and can be on the expensive side. For shoes, try Lamiel (1 Passage Linthout) or Suède (29 Rue des Tongres).

LAEKEN

If you don’t have much time to spare for sightseeing, an afternoon visit to this suburb is a must. Why? Because it’s where you’ll find the quirky Atomium structure, as well as the royal residential complex, its gardens and the Royal Greenhouses, which are only open to the general public once a year in spring.

Sleep soundly – The city centre is only a quick 15-minute metro ride away, but if you choose to spend the night in Laeken, then stay at the elegant Maison Bliss (139 Avenue Prudent Bols, tel. , blissbb.be, rooms from €90). Although this delightful B’n’B has only two rooms on offer, they’re simply exquisite and come with all the mod cons.

Culture vultures – The Castle of Laeken, near the Atomium, is an official residence of the royal family. The park domain also harbours the glorious Royal Greenhouses (monarchie.be). This year they’re open to the public 18 April – 10 May. Another event not to be missed in Laeken is Art Brussels (artbrussels.be), the shock showcase of contemporary art, on 24– 27 April. More than 150 international galleries are taking part.

Must eat – A former Pavilion built for the 1958 World Fair, the heritage-listed Salon 58 (6 Avenue de l’Atomium, tel. ) mixes classy kitsch design with culinary finesse. Despite its proximity to the Atomium, the restaurant has steered clear of turning into a tourist trap and prices are democratic. The seafood dishes are excellent, particularly the dorade royale.

Must drink – While the area isn’t exactly renowned for its nightlife per se, it is home to The Village (Bruparck leisure centre), a cluster of cantinas and bars that stay open late into the night. Not ideal for a romantic tête-à-tête, but definitely the place to go if you’re with friends thirsty for beer and tequila.

MAROLLES

During the Middle Ages, lepers were exiled to this ancient working-class quarter. While a large part of the district was destroyed to make way for the infamous law courts, the cobble-stoned streets remain one of Brussels’ most authentic and charming areas. Come here for art and antiques, flea markets and one of Europe’s top techno clubs.

Must eat – Early birds on their way to the flea market and party animals in need of sobering up meet at De Skieven Architekt (50 Place du Jeude- Balle, tel. ), a local institution serving breakfast from 5am. Its name translates as “crazy architect” and is a direct reference to Joseph Poelaert, the megalomaniac architect who tore down thousands of homes in the area to build the colossal law courts. Het Warm Water (25 Rue des Renards, tel. ) is a fab little café which has great brunches and excellent vegetarian food.

Must drink – Dimly lit and cavernous, the Russian Doucha Bar (4 Rue Haute) is as original as the district it’s hidden in. If you’re lucky there’ll be live music to accompany your vodka shots. Or enjoy Belgian beers and play board and computer games at the unusual Brothers Workshop (238 Rue Blaes). La Brocante (170 Rue Blaes), a laidback pub with super-kitsch décor and a fantastic atmosphere, is loved by locals.

Dance the night away – Even die-hard party poopers will let their hair down at Havana (4 Rue de l’Epée), a brilliant nightspot where you’ll find hot house, live Latin and a sexy crowd. There’s but one address for techno fans and that’s Fuse (208 Rue Blaes), the grungy cradle of electro. On 25 April, the club celebrates its 15th anniversary at the industrial grounds of Tour & Taxis (86/C Avenue du Port). The stellar line-up features DJs like Anthony Rother and Dave Clarke.

Shop til you drop – The area is a cluster of antique sellers, designer furniture shops, art galleries and knickknack boutiques. Get lost inside the sparkling maze of New DeWolf (91 Rue Haute), an amazing homewares store stretching across two floors. Apostrophe (50 Rue Blaes) is the coolest antiques dealer in the neighbourhood. Fashionistas go to S en Ciel (158 Rue Haute), which sells gorgeous handmade bags that will last a lifetime. Still the best thing here is the daily Flea Market on the Place du Jeu-de-Balle (marcheauxpuces.org), which runs from 6am until 2pm.

PLACE DU LUXEMBOURG

Experience the Commission’s hub of hedonism at the tiny Plux square on any given Friday afternoon after 5pm. Set against the gleaming glass structure of the European Parliament, its many bars fill up with inebriated journalists, bureaucrats, lawyers and lobbyists on a weekly basis.

Sleep soundly – Spoil yourself with a stay at the refurbished Sofitel Le Louise (40 Avenue de la Toison d’Or, tel. , sofitel.com, rooms from €130), a short cab ride from Plux. The interior of this ultra-chic design hotel has popped up in numerous interior magazines in recent months. Book online for special deals.

Culture vultures – Gain an insider view of Brussels’ bureaucratic bastions and join a live parliamentary sitting or audio-guided visits at the European Parliament (43 Rue Wiertz).

Must eat – Locals rate Il Pasticcio (3 Rue Marie de Bourgogne, tel. ) as one of the best Italian diners in town. The understated but excellent Hinodeya (37 Rue Caroly, tel. ) sells delicious, fresh sushi.

Must drink – In spring the square comes back to life as café terraces fill up with EU punters. Possibly the most popular is The Grapevine (11 Place du Luxembourg), a traditional Belgian joint serving beers and, on warm days, homemade sangria.

Compiled by Nina Lamparski