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Poland : Krakow - April 2009

Country Code: Dial for Poland

May is a great time to visit Krakow, as the trees are in full bloom, the outdoor cafés and beer gardens open up and the temperatures make strolling around this easily navigable city a real pleasure. It also sees Photomonth (6-31 May), which highlights local and international artists. Michelle Smith gives us a snapshot

Getting around

Balice Airport

Bus: Radtur runs regular buses into the city centre. A single journey costs about €1,90/PLN 7 and takes 30 minutes.
Taxi: A taxi costs around €13/PLN 50 and takes about 30 minutes.
Tourist information: The main office is at 1 Rynek Główny (tel. , krakow.pl). Orbis (41 Rynek Główny) also provides lots of useful information.

OLD TOWN AND RYNEK

This is the beating heart of the tourist area, and it bustles with energy. Bursting with edgy cafés, little restaurants, cool art galleries and friendly guest houses, it’s a delightful place to explore.

Sleep soundly – The five-star Radisson SAS Hotel Krakow (17 ul. Straszewskiego, tel. , krakow.radissonsas.com, rooms from €132/PLN 590) is conveniently located on Straszewskiego, just five minutes’ walk from the town square. Overlooking a city park that’s quite beautiful in May, the hotel offers excellent accommodation done out in two styles: corporate city and 1960s chic (which sees all rooms fully feng shui-ed). Free internet access in every room, a Finnish sauna and fitness centre and full conference facilities come as standard, while staff are professional and charming.

Culture vultures – The Krakow Philharmonic (1 ul. Zwierzyniecka) is housed in an imposing neoclassical building just across the street from the Radisson SAS, and must be the best value cultural evening this side of the Urals. Friday and Saturday nights’ full concert and choral performances come in at just €5,60/PLN 25 for the best seats in the house. This season’s performances include favourites by Bach, Brahms and Mozart as well as full orchestra, soloist and 56-voice choir productions of Dvorak’s Requiem Mass.

Must eat – Visitors looking for their morning coffee should go to Metropolitan (3 ul. Slawkowska, tel. ), which offers breakfasts ranging from gloriously greasy fry-ups to light, healthy options. And since you should sample Polish while you’re here, Chłopskie Jadło (3 sw. Jana, tel. ) is highly recommended – try the pierogi and placki (potato pancakes) as mains and sernik (cheesecake) for dessert. But make sure you book ahead to avoid disappointment.

Dance the night away – Drop by Stalowe Magnolie (15 sw. Jana) for live music, a great bar, a dance floor and armchair relaxing rooms. If you’re very lucky (ask for Anna) you might get into the VIP lounge at the back, where instead of tables and chairs, the crowd lounges around on four-poster beds for a decline-of-the-Roman-Empire-style vibe.

Shop til you drop – Krakow’s best souvenirs are unquestionably to be found in the Sukiennice (Drapers’ Hall), the lemon-yellow building in the centre of Rynek Główny. Pick up Polish amber set in exquisite silver, wood carvings, hand-painted eggs, handsewn blouses, leather handbags and iconographic art. Those with a sweet tooth should head to Kopernik (14 ul. Grodzka), which sells Poland’s famous dark gingerbread. Otherwise, Wawel (33 Rynek Główny) is a chocoholic’s dream.

KAZIMIERZ

The city’s former Jewish quarter was completely devastated during World War II, but the past decade has brought it back to life.

Sleep soundly – Wrona (7 ul. Piwna, tel. , noclegkrakow.pl, rooms from €33/PLN 148) is a small, family-run guesthouse with an enviable view of the river. For something more upmarket try Secesja Hotel (24 ul. Paulinska, tel. , hotelsecesja.krakow.pl, rooms from €89/ PLN 396), with large, bright rooms and a central Kazimierz location.

Must eat – Brand-new Debiut (11 ul. Meiselsa, tel. ) is so artsy and chic it hurts. It’s the perfect place to go for a quick bite to eat between catching the sights.

Must drink – Adventurous drinkers should head to Propaganda (20 ul. Miodowa) and ask for a Wsciekły pies (‘mad dog’), a fiery combination of vodka, Tabasco sauce and sweet raspberry syrup. New on the scene is Bonbon (24 ul. Meiselsa), a laid-back restaurant-slash-bar that serves huge salads, a decent selection of white wine and cool jazz classics.

Shop til you drop – May is a great time to visit Krakow, as the trees are in full bloom, the outdoor cafés and beer gardens open up and the temperatures make strolling around this easily navigable city a real pleasure. It also sees Photomonth (6-31 May), which highlights local and international artists. Michelle Smith gives us a snapshot

Compiled by Michelle Smith

Previous issues for Krakow

Whilst every effort is made to ensure accuracy,
please confirm event/venue details in advance.

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