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Portugal : Lisbon - June 2009

Country Code: Dial 1 for Portugal

June is party time for Portugal’s capital, with a series of events for saints Anthony, John and Peter. The city’s adopted saint, Anthony, sees the biggest street bash of the lot on the night of 12-13 June, with sardines grilled on almost every corner and the city decked out in ribbons. Matthew Hancock heads down there

Getting around

Lisbon Airport

Bus: The Aerobus leaves every 20 minutes from 7.40am to 11pm and goes to the city centre, finishing at Cais do Sodré. Tickets cost €3 and can be bought onboard.
Taxi: It’s about a 20 minute taxi ride to the city centre. The fare costs approximately €15, with an extra charge for luggage in the boot. Prices increase by 20% at night and on weekends and bank holidays.
Tourist information: The Lisboa Welcome Centre is located at Praça do Comércio, on the corner of Rua do Arsenal (tel. , www.atl-turismolisboa.pt).

ALFAMA

This ancient quarter is the pulsating heart of the St Anthony celebrations. Do as the locals and enjoy the allnight street party on 12 June.

Sleep soundly – Just about clear of the hubbub, Albergaria Senhora do Monte (39 Calçada do Monte, tel. , rooms from €130) has all the modern comforts with stunning city vistas from 23 of the 28 rooms.

Must eat – Grab a courtyard table at Lautasco (7 Beco do Azinhal, tel. ) and sample the cataplana (a rich fish stew).

Must drink – It may be tiny, but the kiosk-bar at Esplanada da Graça (Largo da Graça) enjoys one of the grandest views of the city – a great spot for a sunset aperitif.

Dance the night away – Get the Latin spirit at Chafarica (81 Calçada de São Vicente), a pocket-sized Brazilian club with wicked cocktails and live music.

ALCÂNTARA AND SANTO AMARO

Leafy Santo Amaro and its earthy riverside neighbour, Alcântara, are separated by the towering 25 de Abril suspension bridge but share the brooding presence of the River Tagus.

Sleep soundly – Pestana Palace (54 Rua Jau, tel. , pestana.com rooms from €250) is aptly named, with every creature comfort you could need, from luxuriant gardens complete with an outdoor pool to luxurious rooms and an ornate dining room.

Must eat – Espalha Brasas (12 Amazém, Doca de Santo Amaro, tel. ), in a row of warehouse conversions overlooking the moored yachts of Doca de Santo Amaro, serves superior fish dishes. Look out for the superb salmon in a mustard sauce.

Must drink – Café-bar-cum-restaurant Op Art (Doca de Santo Amaro) comes into its own on summer evenings, when you can flake out by the cooling Tagus.

Dance the night away – Buddha Bar (Gare Marítima de Alcântara) pulls in a stylish crowd, with Eastern-influenced décor and various dance floors.

BAIXA

Lisbon’s downtown area was planned after the Great Earthquake of 1755 and is a grid of noble houses, shops and cafés.

Sleep soundly – You can’t get much more central than Hotel Métropole (30 Rossio, tel. , almeidahotels.com, rooms from €160), which has its own airy lounge bar and fine city views from the rooms at the front of the building.

Culture vultures – Find out how Baixa was built at the tiny Núcleo Arqueológico (9 Rua dos Correeiros), where Thursday and Saturday tours reveal the Roman, early Christian and Moorish remains that are hidden beneath the city streets.

Must eat – Baixa is packed with great little local diners such as A Licorista o Bacalhoeiro (218–224 Rua dos Sapateiros, tel. ), where you can eat well for around €15.

Must drink – The ancient and tiny A Ginginha (8 Largo de São Domingos) specialises in a particularly potent cherry brandy – the perfect tipple to kick-start an evening.

Shop til you drop – Branca D’Água (28-30 Rua da Conceição) sells a range of beautiful hand-painted ceramics, tiles and handicrafts.

CASCAIS

Lisbon’s nearest beach resort is a fishing village that’s full of character, with sandy bays, a marina and a permanent summer bustle.

Sleep soundly – The historic Solar Dom Carlos (8 Rua Latino Coelho, tel. , solardomcarlos.com, rooms from €70) has a cool, tiled interior, a garden and good value rooms in the heart of the old town.

Must eat – Dom Manolo’s (11 Avenida Marginal, tel. ) serves nononsense, grilled chicken, best served with fiery piri-piri sauce.

Dance the night away – Coconuts (7 Avenida Rei Humberto II de Itália) still milks its reputation as the place to strut your stuff once the sun goes down.

Compiled by Matthew Hancock