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Spain : Barcelona - July 2009

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The buzz of the Catalan capital reaches fever pitch in July when the Grec’09 Festival of music, theatre and dance fills venues and squares all over the city. Nights are long and offset during the day by sun therapy on the beaches that stretch from Port Vell to the Forum. Judy Thomson tops up her tan

Getting around

El Prat

Bus: The nearest airport is El Prat Airport, about 12km from the city.

MONTJUÏC

This rocky hill overlooking the city, packed with museums and shaded by ornamental gardens and leafy parks, is the epicentre of Grec’09.

Culture vultures – Catch Jordi Savall, one of Catalonia’s most famous musicians, and Hespèrion XXI play their special blend of medieval Mediterranean music in the open-air amphitheatre Teatre Grec (36 Passeig de Santa Madrona) on 6 July, or Brazilian dancer Bruno Beltrao and company at Mercat de les Flors (59 Lleida) from 2-3 July. There are dozens of other shows taking place. See bcn. cat/grec for the full programme.

Must eat – In the neighbourhood of streets at the foot of the hill is tiny Quimet y Quimet (25 Poeta Cabanyes, tel. ), a must for those looking for authentic tapas. Try the combinado for a taste of everything and be led by the owner in your choice of wine. Elbow your way to a table at popular La Tomaquera (58 Margarit), which doesn’t take bookings, and don’t stint on the allioli (garlic sauce) with your grilled botifarra (Catalan sausage) or xai (lamb). Snails are a speciality here.

Dance the night away – Montjuïc de Nit on 5 July sees the hill go into all-night party mode, with free concerts and open-door events at museums.

Shop til you drop – Pick up Miróinspired gifts, posters and books at Fundació Joan Miró (1 Avinguda de Miramar).

BARCELONETA

The narrow streets here, which all lead to the sea, were traditionally home to the fishermen whose boats were moored alongside. Now they’re crammed with seafood restaurants.

Sleep soundly – Once headquarters of the fishermen’s union, Hotel 54 Barceloneta (54 Passeig Joan de Borbó, tel. , hotel54 barceloneta.com, rooms from €95) is modern and has great views over the port and city.

Culture vultures – Enjoy getting to Barceloneta by peacefully crossing the harbour in the timeless cable car from Torre Jaume I (Moll de Barcelona). Then take your pick of beaches, wellequipped with sunbeds, showers and xiringuitos (beach bars).

Must eat – Over 100 years old, Can Solé (4 San Carles, tel. ) is good for traditional seafood. Try baby octopus, followed by tuna with tomatoes. Down on the beach, stylish Sal Cafe (Passeig Maritim, tel. ) is more about nibbling and being seen until the DJ gets spinning.

EIXAMPLE

This year the district – a showcase of 19th-century decorative architecture, notably by the genius Antoni Gaudí – celebrates its 150th anniversary.

Culture vultures – Jazz legend Keith Jarrett will be appearing at L’Auditori (150 Lepant) on 21 July.

Shop til you drop – This is the time to snap up pieces from local designers at bargain prices – the rebaixes (sales) are on all month. Check out the understated style of Antonio Miró (349 Consell de Cent) or the perfect cut of Adolfo Dominguez (32 Passeig de Gràcia). Design-conscious Catalans depend on Vinçon (96 Passeig de Gràcia) for the latest in homewares. Be sure to visit the store’s inner patio for an unusual – and free – view of Gaudí’s La Pedrera.

EL RAVAL

This once-neglected district of the old town has undergone major urban regeneration, emerging as a home to cutting-edge cultural centres, trendy bars and off-beat shops.

Sleep soundly – Shoemaker Camper has opened its first hotel here, Casa Camper (11 Elisabets, tel. , casacamper.com, rooms from €220). Every room comes with a separate sitting room and 24-hour buffet.

Must drink – Head to the terrace of the contemporary art museum MACBA (1 Plaça dels Angels), which is open until midnight on Thursdays and Fridays throughout the summer.

Compiled by Judy Thomson