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Belgium : Brussels - July 2009
Country Code: Dial for BelgiumThere’s no rest for the wicked in July as Brussels stages a range of outdoor events, celebrating summer in the concrete jungle. Don’t miss the PleinOPENAir cinema festival this month (nova-cinema.org), which screens rare films in unusual places that have undergone big urban transformations. Nina Lamparski gets sunburnt while exploring the capital’s hot spots
Getting around
Brussels Airport
Bus: The No 12 bus runs every 30 minutes between the airport and Rond-Point Schuman. The journey takes about 30 minutes. A oneway ticket costs €3.
Train: Trains from the airport run every 20 minutes at peak times. The journey takes 15 minutes and trains go to Brussels’ three mainline stations. Tickets cost approximately €2,80
Taxi: A taxi from the airport to the city centre will cost around €25-35. The journey should take about 25 minutes.
Tourist information: The main tourist office can be found on Grand’Place in the city centre (tel. , www.brussels.
PLACE POELAERT
Offering one of the finest views across Brussels, this large square pays tribute to the infamous architect Joseph Poelaert, the megalomaniac mastermind behind the neoclassical law courts. Use the square as a starting point from which to venture into the lower end of town.
Sleep soundly – If you love boutique establishments, book in at the pristine Sweet Brussels B&B (78 Avenue de Stalingrad, tel. , sweetbrussels.be, rooms from €85).
Culture vultures – Built between 1886 and 1883 by Poelaert, Palais de Justice (63 Rue de la Régence) is a classified Unesco World Heritage Site and bigger than Saint Peter’s Basilica in Rome. The architect himself holds a controversial place in Belgian history because thousands of families were removed from their homes in the Marolles district to make way for his epic constructions.
Must eat – Surrounded by charming old buildings and cobblestone streets, the art-deco bistro Le Perroquet (31 Rue Watteeu, tel. ) has a great outdoor area and offers a big selection of vegetarian and low-fat options. Bla Bla & Gallery (55 Rue des Capucins, tel. ) is both a restaurant and art exhibition space. Try the grilled Norwegian salmon back – a pure delight.
Dance the night away – Open-air night Le Gazon (legazon.be) gets the capital moving on weekends throughout July and August. Local and international DJs spin decks in unusual locations (always announced at the last minute). The event is cancelled during bad weather, so check online before you head out.
Shop til you drop – Take the lift on Place Poelaert and get whisked down to Rue Haute, where you’ll find a large number of antique and interior design stores. Check out Rambagh (64 Rue Haute) for its beautiful colonial-style furniture. Meanwhile, La Vaisselle Au Kilo (124 Rue Haute) sells mountains of china, cutlery and glass.
AVENUE LOUISE
At one end of this long avenue you can explore the Stephanie area with its ultra-chic shops and stylish cafés. At the other lie the beautiful Cambre forest, an ancient abbey and the capital’s most famous fashion college.
Sleep soundly – The comfortable Four Points by Sheraton Brussels (15 Rue Paul Spaak, tel. , fourpointsbrussels.com, rooms from €60) is set between the bustling Châtelain and Flagey squares.
Culture vultures – Get away from city noise and stroll through the lush, peaceful gardens of Abbaye de la Cambre. A stone’s throw from Avenue Louise, this district is also home to the internationally renowned La Cambre fashion, architecture and visual arts college (21 Abbaye de la Cambre). On Fridays, catch a lunchtime concert at Studio 1 (Place Sainte- Croix), as part of the Flagey cultural centre’s summer Piknik Music programme. See flagey.be for details.
Must eat – Although a bit pricey, the breakfast at Natural Caffè (196a Avenue Louise, tel. ) is excellent. Try a superb coffee creation and a pint-size serving of fresh orange juice. For lunch, there’s cute La Crèmerie de la Vache (6 Rue Jean Stas, tel. ), which serves yummy sandwiches and pastries. The goat’s cheese salad with honey, raisins and walnuts is a winner.
Must drink – On a hot day, enjoy a cold blanche (white beer) with lemon on the terrace of People (11 Avenue de la Toison d’Or). It’s a little hit-and-miss food-wise at Mexican cantina Pablo’s (51 Rue de Namur), but the margaritas are deliciously potent.
Dance the night away – For dancing and cocktails, head to TIBV (2 Rue Tenbosch) just minutes away from the hip Place Châtelain. The disco lounge is decked out with slick white leather sofas and serves vintage cognacs – very Miami Vice. A hot tip: happy hour runs from 8pm to 11pm.
Shop til you drop – Hold tight to your wallet in the brand new boutique Roggwiller (99-101 Rue de Namur). The elegant store sells hot designer labels and accessories by the likes of Kris van Assche, Cher Michel Klein and David Szeto. And no, you can never own enough shoes, especially if they’re made by Parisian designer Robert Clergerie (1a Chaussée de Charleroi).
RIVE GAUCHE
Often compared to Berlin, the area around the canal is one of Brussels’ most interesting districts, linking the stylish Rue Antoine Dansaert with the much more down-to-earth Molenbeek neighbourhood. Property developers have turned this neglected part of town into an expensive investment hub, with converted warehouses and huge lofts, but the energy remains raw and exciting as designer boutiques clash with avant-garde arts spaces.
Culture vultures – See the best Belgian contemporary design during De Nieuwe Oogst exhibition at the Design Vlaanderen Galerie (19 Rue de la Chancellerie), on until 16 August. Bookworms, meanwhile, should visit the International House of Literature, otherwise known as Passa Porta (46 Rue Antoine Dansaert).
Must eat – Unknown to many locals, Molenbeek hides a fine dining gem, the beautifully designed Zebrano (47 Rue de Rotterdam, tel. ). The intimate restaurant, which also has a good wine cellar and a gorgeous terrace, does excellent French cuisine. The tartare de boeuf with truffle oil is heavenly.
Must drink – Brussels bar guru Frédéric Nicolay is clearly determined to become the capital’s heavyweight nightlife champion. One of his latest ventures, the successful Cafe Modèle (208 Rue Antoine Dansaert), attracts artsy types and young families during the day, and a fashionable party crowd after sunset.
Shop til you drop – Find superb bargains inside the warehouse space of Dépôt-Design (19 Quai du Hainaut), a temple of interior design that offers international brands at low prices. On the other side of the canal, Belgian label Y-Dress? (102 Rue Antoine Dansaert) sells fashion that’s quirky and unique.
CHARLEROI
Set in a vast coal basin called Pays Noir (or ‘Black Country’), the largest city in Wallonia was once the beating heart of Belgium’s mining industry. Today, its award-winning museums, World Heritage Site and charged past make it an intriguing day-trip destination. The train ride from Brussels takes about 45 minutes.
Culture vultures – With more than 80,000 pictures and two million negatives, Musée de la Photographie (11 Avenue Paul Pastur) fully deserves to be this year’s winner of the prestigious Museum Prize. The town’s other notable attractions include Musée du Verre (80 Rue du Cazier), the city hall’s world heritage-listed belfry (Place Charles II) and the splendid art deco Maison Dorée (15 Rue Tumelaire).
Must eat – La Vray Cantine (80 Rue du Cazier, 5626) has featured in the Gault Millau guide, and serves scrumptious Belgo-French dishes. Try the grilled brill from Brittany.
Must drink – For a real taste of Charleroi’s mixed population, down a trappist beer or two on the terrace of Aux Mille Colonnes (6 Rue de Marchienne). The bar attracts all sorts of punters, from old miners and blue-collar workers to bourgeois bankers.
Dance the night away – Let your hair down at the concert venue Coliseum (31 Rue de Marchienne). Built in 1924 and closed for a decade before reopening four years ago, the impressive building is the site of live music shows and spectacles. See lecoliseum.be for the July programme.
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| Whilst every effort is made to ensure accuracy, please confirm event/venue details in advance. |
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