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Italy : Catania - July 2009

Country Code: Dial for Italy

High summer in Catania sees residents make a beeline for La Playa beach, a stunning 10km swathe of white sand, before heading to the Aeolian Islands, where religious celebrations on Salina reach fever pitch on 23 July. Ellen Grady joins them

Getting around

Fontanarossa Airport

Bus: The Alibus shuttle service runs between the airport and the central train station. It’s a 15-minute journey, with buses running from 5am to midnight. Other services are available to all major Sicilian destinations, including Taormina and Palermo. The bus journey into Catania costs €2.
Taxi: Taxis are also available and the journey into Catania shouldn’t cost more than €30. All major car-hire companies are represented at the airport.
Tourist information: The main tourist information office is at 10 Via Cimarosa (, www.turismo.catania.it)

LA PLAYA

Catania’s beach district lies along one of the most beautiful strips of Sicilian coast.

Sleep soundly – Pick the luxurious Romano Palace Luxury Hotel (28 Viale Kennedy, , romanopalace.it, rooms from €110), which is surrounded by parkland. When booking, ask for the exotic Japan or Marrakesh suites, which come with whirlpool tubs. The hotel also runs a free airport shuttle.

Must eat – Taverna Coppola (51 Via Coppola, ) does the best pizza in town. It’s also a favourite for carpaccio di spada (raw swordfish), and panna cotta for dessert.

Must drink – After an evening on the tiles, Catania’s night owls congregate at dawn for coffee and fresh breakfast pastries or, better still, an indulgent ice cream in a brioche, at Scardaci (84 Via Santa Maddalena).

Dance the night away – Mercati Generali (s.s.417 km69) is an old wine press set among the orange trees and by a lake, where you can dance under the stars. There’s great music, DJs and delicious food if you get hungry, but don’t arrive before midnight. At the beach, bathing establishments at La Playa stay open till dawn, for midnight swimming, pizza and dancing.

Shop til you drop – It’s summer sales time, so prowl the main street for bargain buys. You’ll find the latest beachwear and accessories at La Rinascente (155 Via Etnea).

TAORMINA

Said to be one of the most beautiful towns in Italy, Taormina is just a short bus or train ride from Catania and offers unforgettable panoramas and top-level entertainment in July.

Sleep soundly – Close to the beach and the cable car for Taormina centre, family-run Villa la Zagara (254 Via Nazionale, Mazzarò, tel. , villalazagara.com, rooms from €100) offers simple accommodation and home cooking, Sicilian style.

Culture vultures – From its dizzy position, the ancient Teatro Greco (Via Teatro Greco) commands stunning views from the Strait of Messina to Mount Etna, and is the perfect setting for summer evening performances. Jethro Tull, Anastacia, Michael Bolton and étoile dancer Roberto Bolle are all signed up to perform this month. For more details, visit taorminaestate.it.

Must eat – Catch the evening breeze in Castelmola and dine at Il Padrino (2 Via Porta Mola, tel. ) on Sicilian appetisers, followed by spaghetti with ricotta and pistachio. Choose your table in the garden and admire the views. There’s an art gallery too, dedicated to Sicilian painters.

Shop til you drop – You’ll find unusual souvenirs and replicas of antique jewellery at Ricordi Siciliani (8 Via Teatro Greco).

SALINA

The fast bus from the airport will whisk you to the port of Milazzo, where you’ll find ferries and hydrofoils for Salina, the most delectable of the Aeolian Islands off the north coast of Sicily. Formed from two inactive volcanoes, the island offers lush vegetation, a crystal-clear sea, wonderful food, and peace and quiet. Spend a few days in paradise – you won’t regret it.

Sleep soundly – On the mountainside overlooking the vineyards and the sea is Hotel Signum (15 Via Scalo, Malfa, , hotelsignum.it, rooms from €130), a cluster of ancient cottages restored to perfection. Creative chef Michele Caruso presides over the hotel’s charming open-air restaurant, for alfresco dining.

Culture vultures – Salina celebrates the Madonna, the patron of St Marina, and malvasia wine this month.

Must eat – The fish soup or grilled tattlers, the local squid, are the dishes to look for at Il Delfino (19 Via Marina Garibaldi, Lingua, ).

Must drink – Da Alfredo (opposite the pier, Lingua) prepares fantastic granita (sorbet). Go for the watermelon, peach or fig flavour.

Shop til you drop – Stock up on malvasia and malvasia passito wines at Carlo Hauner (1 Via Umberto, Lingua).

Compiled by Ellen Grady