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Poland : Krakow - July 2009

Country Code: Dial for Poland

Krakow is probably at its best in July, when the city is fresh and green, and the museums offer culture on a grand scale. Of note is the Muzeum Narodowe’s American Dream exhibition, which shows visitors aspects of American life that were most desired by Poles labouring under the communist system. Michelle Smith takes us around a modern city that has one foot firmly in the past

Getting around

Balice Airport

Bus: Radtur runs regular buses into the city centre. A single journey costs about €1,90/PLN 7 and takes 30 minutes.
Taxi: A taxi costs around €13/PLN 50 and takes about 30 minutes.
Tourist information: The main office is at 1 Rynek Główny (tel. , krakow.pl). Orbis (41 Rynek Główny) also provides lots of useful information.

OLD TOWN AND RYNEK

During the height of the summer, Rynek Główny bustles with life. Tourists and locals lounge around, enjoying the sights and sounds of the city’s most vibrant space.

Sleep soundly – Lovers of luxury will appreciate Hotel Stary (5 Ulica Szczepanska, tel. , stary.hotel.com.pl, rooms from €177/ PLN 800), especially its underground swimming pool surrounded by arches and stone. Travellers on a budget should check into City Hostel (21 Sw. Krzyza, tel. , cityhostel. pl, rooms from €10/PLN 43). It’s the city’s cheapest hostel and is centrally located, clean and very friendly.

Culture vultures – The American Dream exhibition at the national museum Muzeum Narodowe (1, 3 Al. Maja) runs from 2 July until 27 September. It highlights aspects of American culture that appealed to Poles during the communist era, when the regime bombarded people with relentless anti-western propaganda. Films, photography, installations and paintings will be on display.

Must eat – For high-end Polish and international cuisine, head to Wesele Restauracja (10 Rynek Główny, tel. ). Guests with a sweet tooth must try the sinful szarlotka (apple pie) with vanilla ice cream for dessert. Those looking for excellent Polish food on a budget will enjoy Restauracja Galicyjska (9 Ulica Pijarska, tel. ). The traditional zurek soup with sausages and eggs is absolutely perfect.

Dance the night away – A favourite among students, Pod Jaszczurami (8 Rynek Główny) serves cold beer and cool tunes in a laid-back atmosphere. The stylish and sophisticated Baccarat (13 Ulica Stolarska), draped in velvet, with chandeliers and incredible lamps, is a smoke-free dance zone.

KAZIMIERZ

The city’s centre of Jewish culture for more than 500 years, Kazimierz was almost completely destroyed in the Second World War. Recent rebuilding has brought it back to life, and allows visitors to step back in time.

Sleep soundly – Eden (15 Ulica Ciemna, tel. , hoteleden.pl, rooms from €62/PLN 280) is a fascinating hotel. It boasts the area’s only true kosher restaurant, the country’s only mikveh (Jewish ritual bath house) and a salt cave (a specially constructed room whose air is rich in salt microns) to refresh the weary after a day of walking. Equally interesting is the quirky Hotel Abel (30 Ulica Józefa, tel. , hotelabel.pl, rooms from €40/PLN 180), which has managed to retain the dignified, eclectic spirit of pre-war Kazimierz.

Must drink – Mojito Cafe (4 Plac Nowy) serves excellent cappuccinos alongside rum cocktails – mojitos here run the gamut from tartly fruity to darkly spicy. Pasieka (25 Ulica Miodowa) is a pub on ‘honey street’ that offers honey-based liqueurs and hot tea with krupnik (a honey spirit infused with herbs). The warm, wooden décor adds even more of a golden glow to the space, making it welcoming and relaxing.

Dance the night away – Lavishly decked out in purple and gold, Shakers (5 Ulica Szewska) is the newest kid on the block. Come here for cocktails and retro funk. Far less upscale is Pub Stajnia (12 Ulica Józefa), a beer garden in a gorgeous courtyard.

Shop til you drop – Ulica Estery is a goldmine of small, independent shops selling one-off, handmade pieces of jewellery and vibrantly coloured tea sets in animal shapes. Consider buying an elephant teapot for a friend who has kids – it’s adorable. Tiny art galleries also abound, selling unique items. Take note of Galeria Archetyp (10 Ulica Estery), which has an astounding selection of iconographic art, ranging from hand-carved wooden figures and hand-painted triptychs to inspirational paintings.

Compiled by Michelle Smith

Previous issues for Krakow

Whilst every effort is made to ensure accuracy,
please confirm event/venue details in advance.

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