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France : Lyon - July 2009

Country Code: Dial for France

Getting around

Saint Exupéry Airport

Bus: There is the Satobus every 20 minutes to and from the airport. Buses run from 5.35am to 11.40pm, seven days a week. A single ticket to the city costs €8.60 and the journey takes about 50 minutes.
Taxi: A taxi to the city centre costs approximately €50 during the day and €65 at night, taking around 45 minutes.
Tourist information: The main tourist office is located at Place Bellecour (tel. , en. www.lyon-france.com).

PLACE DES JACOBINS AND PLACE BELLECOUR

Savvy shoppers adore Rue Emile Zola and Rue Gasparin, known as Le Carré d’Or (‘Golden Square’) for the myriad swanky designer boutiques here.

Culture vultures – Musées Tissus et des Arts Décoratifs (34 Rue de la Charité) retraces 2,000 years of textiles from the east and west.

Must eat – Le Sud (11 Place Antonin Poncet, tel. ) serves delicious tagines on the terrace. Or try La Voûte Chez Léa (11 Place Antonin Gourju, tel. ) for meatier options, such as roast lamb’s kidneys with wild mushrooms.

Shop til you drop – Badiane (1 Place Bellecour) sells cookery books along with gadgety gifts for gastronomes. The glass-roofed Passage de l’Argue (Place des Jacobins) is full of oldfashioned artisans including milliners – try Cartier for hats and Weiss for gloves and scarves –and cutlers, who share the space with modern trades.

BROTTEAUX

The former train station’s impressive façade is the focal point of a quarter rich in designer shopping, only a stone’s throw from Parc de la Tête d’Or and Part-Dieu shopping centre.

Sleep soundly – If it’s pampering you’re after, head to La Reine Astrid (24 Boulevard des Belges, tel. , warwickastrid.com, rooms from €190). Ask for one of the seventhfloor rooms with a park view.

Culture vultures – Musée Guimet (28 Boulevard des Belges) stages ever-changing exhibitions, and features collections from Afghanistan, central Asia and Japan.

Must eat – Quirky deli restaurant Via Veneto (86 Cours Vitton, tel. ) cooks up inventive pasta dishes in a bustling atmosphere. The gnocchi arrabbiata is particularly good here. Brasserie des Brotteaux (1 Place Jules Ferry, tel. ) offers bygone elegance and refined takes on Lyonnais classics, such as pan-fried calf’s liver and dauphinoise potatoes.

Must drink – L’Horloge (Boulevard des Brotteaux) is perfect for streetside champagne-sipping during the summery evenings.

Dance the night away – You should dress to impress at Apericlub (13 Place Jules Ferry), which pulls in a sleek crowd of locals, and spins house and techno till the small hours.

PONT DE LA GUILLOTIÈRE

Town planners have triumphed in giving the banks of the Rhône a lazy day and lively night feel.

Sleep soundly – Mercure Lyon Wilson (6 Rue Mazenod, tel. , accorhotels.com, rooms from €85) is near to the Rhône river.

Dance the night away – Le Sirius (21 Quai Augagneur) has a lively quayside dance floor, fuelled by the potent rum cocktails.

Shop til you drop – MistiGriff (140 Avenue du Maréchal de Saxe) resembles a jumble sale. If you’ve got the patience, rummage your way through top names such as Diesel and Mugler.

SAINT-JEAN

The cobbled streets that run from Gare Saint-Paul to the impressive Cathédrale Saint-Jean are a warren of passageways called traboules, with a rich and interesting history.

Must eat – The wild mushroom risotto at Chez Maurizio (1 Place Eugène Wernert, tel. ) is a must-try. For those who dare to sample local dishes, Le Tire-Bouchon (16 Rue du Boeuf, tel. ) serves tripe and blood sausage.

Shop til you drop – Rue Saint-Jean is lined with one-off (if slightly pricey) shops. Try Le Capricorne (1 Place de la Baleine) for handmade lamps and sculptures, Le Bois Debout (34 Rue Saint-Jean) for ancient and contemporary lithography, Chez Disagn’Cardelli (6 Rue Saint-Jean) for local handmade puppetry with an adjoining theatre, and Indy Shop (54 Rue Saint-Jean) for a selection of vintage clothing.

Compiled by John Brown