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France : Marseille - July 2009

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Marseille is in a spin over the Tour de France (letour.fr) on 6 July, as the world’s most competitive cyclists depart Hôtel de Ville for the 196km third stage to La Grande Motte. Until 11 July there’s exercise for the intellect too, as Festival de Marseille (festivalde marseille. com) comes to a close with a diverse selection of arts events, many of them free. Neville Walker limbers up for summer in the city

Getting around

Marseille-Provence

Bus: A shuttle bus connects the airport with the centre of Marseille every 20 minutes or so, and the journey takes between 25 and 30 minutes. Tickets cost €8,50.
Taxi: A taxi to the centre of Marseille from the airport costs about €40 during the day and €50 at night. The journey takes around 30 minutes.
Tourist information: The main office can be found at 4 La Canebière, close to Vieux Port (tel. , www.marseilletourisme.com).

VIEUX PORT AND LA CANEBIÈRE

The yacht-filled harbour is the true heart of Marseille and, on 14 July, the focus for its Bastille Day celebrations, culminating in a spectacular 30-minute firework display. Sweeping east from the port, the boulevard of La Canebière separates the street life of the Belsunce quartier from the exclusive shopping streets to the south.

Culture vultures – A free concert inspired by Thelonious Monk on Cours d’Estienne d’Orves kicks off the Festival Jazz des Cinq Continents (festival-jazz-cinq-continents.com) on 20 July, featuring LeoTrio+ with American guests Kirk Lightsey on piano and John Betsch on drums.

Must eat – Exposed beams, whitewashed walls and mismatched furniture create a summery, informal ambience at La Passarelle (52 Rue Plan Fourmiguier, tel. ). It’s tucked behind Théâtre National de la Criée just off Vieux Port and comes complete with its own vegetable garden. A big hit with locals since it opened last year, it’s a fine spot to sample Provençal staples such as soupe au pistou (vegetable soup with garlic, basil and olive oil).

Dance the night away – La Rue du Tango returns to Rue du Théatre Français (off La Canebière) each Friday night during July for another sensual summer of alfresco dance, culminating with a closing ball on 24 July. See laruedutango.fr for more details.

Shop til you drop – Just up from the port and founded in 1781, Le Four des Navettes (136 Rue Sainte) is the oldest bakery in Marseille and the place to buy the delicious, orange-scented biscuits known as navettes.

LA CORNICHE

As the mercury rises, the lure of a morning or evening stroll along the Corniche becomes irresistible, with cooling sea breezes, views towards Château d’If and Frioul Islands and – best of all – some of Marseille’s best eating around the picturesque fishing port of Vallon des Auffes.

Sleep soundly – Sleek, modern and with a superb location by the sea, Pullman Marseille Palm Beach (200 Corniche J.F Kennedy, tel. , accorhotels.com, rooms from €213) combines the facilities of a top-notch business hotel with a dash of Côte d’Azur luxury.

Culture vultures – Dance, comedy and video combine to create Jeanne Poitevin’s thought-provoking multimedia show Des Idéaux at the open-air Théâtre Sylvain (just off the Corniche) on 31 July. For more details, see mairiedupremiersecteur.fr.

Must eat – Lionel and Isabelle Mounier’s Chez Jeannot (129 Vallon des Auffes, tel. ), right on the harbour at Vallon des Auffes, is the perfect spot to tuck into grilled fish, seafood or pieds et paquets (parcels of lamb tripe stuffed with streaky bacon and parsley sauce) while soaking up the fishing village ambience.

MONTREDON AND LES GOUDES

Small sandy beaches and the proximity of calanques – secret, unspoilt rocky inlets from the sea – ensure the pace of life slows to a Mediterranean crawl in Marseille’s laid-back seaside south.

Must eat – The name says it all at the sunny, casual Au Bord de l’Eeau (15 Rue des Arapèdes, tel. ). Tuck into octopus salad with a side order of sea views.

Must drink – Jules Verne would feel at home amid the submarine-themed surroundings of 20,000 Lieues (77 Boulevard Alexandre Delabre). The lively Les Goudes pub attracts a young crowd with a plum location facing the sea. Closer to town, try Nana Beach (2 Place Joseph Vidal) for sheer beach-bum elegance on the sands of Pointe Rouge.

Compiled by Neville Walker