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Russia : Moscow - July 2009

Country Code: Dial + for Russia

Many Muscovites hightail it to their dachas (summer houses) in the sweltering summer, but there are plenty of reasons to stick around in July. If Britney Spears’ first concert in Russia isn’t to your liking, try the Moscow International Beer Festival, says Sonya Rinkus

Getting around

Domodedovo International Airport

Bus: Coaches from Domodedovo station leave every 15 minutes and take 35 minutes to reach the city centre. Tickets cost €1,15/RUB 40.
Train: Trains leave from Domededovo to Paveletskaya train station every 40 minutes, with the journey taking 40 minutes. Tickets cost €5/RUB 180.
Taxi: A journey to the city centre should cost about €43/RUB 1600. The trip takes around an hour.
Tourist information: The main tourist office is at 4 Ulitsa Ilyinka (tel. , www.moscow-city.ru).

TEATRALNAYA

Just by Red Square, this area is full of high-end dining and cultural events.

Sleep soundly – Ararat Park Hyatt Moscow (4 Neglinnaya Ulitsa, , moscow.park.hyatt.com, rooms from €410/RUB 18,000) stands out for its distinctly Armenian decor and cuisine. You can get kebabs on every street in Moscow, but those sold in the hotel’s ground floor restaurant, Cafe Ararat, are the city’s best.

Must eat – The Bolshoi Theatre remains under repair until 2013, but its neighbour, new restaurant Bolshoi (3/6 Petrovka Ulitsa, ), embodies the theatre’s classical spirit. A project of Moscow’s leading restaurateur, Arkady Novikov, it’s chic but very expensive.

Dance the night away – One sneaky way to get past the door control at wildly popular Shop & Bar Denis Simachev (12/2 Stoleshnikov Pereulok) is to say you’re “with Denis”. But don’t try that on a night when the designer himself is DJing with musical group Low Budget Family.

Shop til you drop – Fashionistas flock to Stoleshnikov Pereulok, central Moscow’s haute-couture pedestrian lane. Most of the major fashion houses are here, including Agent Provocateur (10 Stoleshnikov Pereulok).

VOROBYOVY GORY

Formerly a wooded area on the city outskirts, Vorobyovy Gory (Sparrow Hills) is now fully incorporated into Moscow, offering respite from the heat in summer and skiing in winter.

Culture vultures – Hike up the hill to the Vorobyovy Gory observation platform for a breathtaking view of Moscow, the same seen by Napoleon in 1812 when he tried – and failed – to invade Moscow. Don’t bother purchasing any of the souvenirs here – prices are much cheaper back in the city centre.

Must eat – The Russian Academy of Sciences is known as the ‘Golden Brain’, both for its academic reputation and its bizarre copper-domed architecture. Lesser known is Sky Lounge (32a Leninsky Prospekt, ) on the Academy’s 22nd floor, which offers a fantastic view of the city and open-air dining.

Must drink – Quench your thirst at the 11th Annual Moscow International Beer Festival at Luzhniki Stadium (24 Luzhnetskaya Naberezhnaya) from 8-12 July. Be prepared, though – the tipsy are forcefully encouraged to join on-site athletic competitions.

Dance the night away – The line-up at B1 Maximum (11 Ordzhonikdze Ulitsa) in July includes Morrissey (1 July), Nick Cave & the Bad Seeds (16 July) and Suzanne Vega (31 July).

OLYMPIC STADIUM

Built for the 1980 Summer Olympics, this massive arena now serves as a concert venue.

Culture vultures – Make way for the Circus! Britney Spears makes her first appearance in Russia on 21 July at Olympiisky Stadium (16 Olympiisky Prospekt).

Must eat – Transsiberian (18/1 Olympiisky Prospekt, ) at Renaissance Moscow Hotel has waiters dressed as train attendants and serves twists on Russian classics, such as vodka-marinated salmon.

Dance the night away – Fasol (28/1 Prospekt Mira) is the perfect antidote to the city’s elitist club scene. Enjoy cheap beer and concerts on the summer terrace, but arrive early if you want to snag a scenic table.

ZAMOSKVORECHYE

This district offers the best views of the Kremlin, and loads of options for dining and drinking.

Must eat – Clean, fresh and simple, Mi Piace (13/9 Bolshaya Ordynka, ) is a dependable stop for soups, salads and pasta. It has a range of vodka-based cocktails for summer – try lychee pearl.

Dance the night away – Getting into Fabrique (2 Kosmodamianskaya Naberezhnaya) takes finesse – be confident and polite, don’t be in a large group and use English to your advantage.

Compiled by Sonya Rinkus