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Spain : Seville - July 2009

Country Code: Dial for Spain

Seville is captivating – and hot – at this time of year. Get out early for your café con leche and sightseeing, then have a siesta before staying up late, strolling between tapas bars and enjoying the city’s legendary nightlife. This month you can catch an authentic zarzuela (musical theatre) performance. Josephine Quintero is all ears

Getting around

Seville San Pablo Airport

Bus: Buses leave every half hour on weekdays and every hour at weekends. They start at about 6am and finish around 11pm. Tickets cost €2 and the journey takes about 25 minutes.
Taxi: A journey from the airport to the city centre takes about 15 minutes and costs approximately €20.
Tourist information: The main tourist offices can be found at 28 Calle Arjona (tel. ) and 19 Plaza de San Francisco (tel. , www.turismo.sevilla.org).

Josephine Quintero

This area is picture-postcard pretty, with orange trees, cobbled plazas and strolling guitarists

Sleep soundly – EME Fusion Hotel (27 Calle Alemanes, tel. , emehotel.com, rooms from €200) is an avant-garde boutique bolthole. Your experience begins at the entrance, where you’re greeted by a statuesque concierge wearing a panama hat tilted at a rakish angle.

Culture vultures – Out of several flamenco shows in town, Tablao Flamenco Los Gallos (11 Plaza Santa Cruz) is the best, especially if Jairo Barrull is dancing.

Must eat – Recover from the bracing walk to the top of the Giralda bell tower with gazpacho at Cervecería Giralda (1 Calle Mateos Gago, tel. ), arguably the best in town. For a more substantial meal, try Salvador Rojo (23 Calle San Fernando, tel. ), known for its innovative dishes, such as langostinos (prawns) with Thai rice.

Must drink – Fancy a cool mint tea or iced fruit juice? Aire de Sevilla (15 Calle Aire) is a traditional Arab-style bathhouse with a delightful teteria (tea shop).

Dance the night away – Head to Disco Catedral (12 Cuesta del Rosario) after midnight. Don’t even think of getting here before or you may dance alone.

Shop til you drop – From aire to agua – pick up a bottle of fragrant orange blossom-based perfume at Agua de Sevilla (3 Calle San Fernando).

EL ARENAL

The commercial heart of town is also one of the liveliest barrios in Seville.

Sleep soundly – Surrounded by tapas bars and restaurants, the modest Hotel Adriano (12 Calle Adriano, tel. , hoteladriano.net, rooms from €55) has classic rooms fitted out with dark furniture combined with glossy marble floors.

Culture vultures – Across from the river, super-plush Teatro de la Maestranza (22 Paseo de Crisóbal Colón) is a great place to indulge in an evening of traditional Spanish zarzuela (think Gilbert & Sullivan-cum- Spanish style music hall). Performances run from 7-11 July.

Must eat – Freshly made pasta and crispy based pizza have made La Tagliatella (13 Calle Alfonso XII, tel. ) a popular choice with those seeking an Italian fix. Or go for creative Andaluz with the innovative tapas at Hotel Bécquer’s La Leyenda (4 Calle Reyes Católicos, tel. ).

Must drink – Sit surrounded by faded feria posters at Bodega San José (10 Calle Adriano) and enjoy a glass of cold fino straight from the barrel.

Dance the night away – Antiguedades (40 Argote de Molina) is a funky little bar that gets even lively later as the evening progresses.

Shop til you drop – Spanish leather has long been renowned for its magnificent quality and El Caballo (12 Plaza Nueva) is the place to pick up some great examples.

TRIANA

This earthy, atmospheric part of town is at the heart of Seville’s ¡Ole! spirit, and is also home to flamenco, gypsies and distinctive hand-painted ceramics.

Sleep soundly – The smart and comfortable Abba Triana Hotel (Plaza de Chapina, tel. , abbatrianahotel.com, rooms from €125) is a reliable option overlooking the river.

Culture vultures – Triana is famous for producing traditional ceramics. You can watch the craftsmen at the workshops located on Calle Alfarería in the heart of the potters’ district.

Must eat – Rio Grande (Calle Betis, tel. ), just across the main Triana bridge, is a fine place to try fishy tapas while sitting on the terrace.

Shop til you drop – Calle Alfarería is great for inexpensive yet stylish shoe shops. There’s a superb selection of footwear available at Calzados Benavente (43 Calle Alfarería).

Compiled by Josephine Quintero