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Italy : Venice - July 2009

Country Code: Dial for Italy

Visitors from all over the world descend on Venice in July for the city’s Biennale, the greatest contemporary art show on Earth, which runs until 22 November. Roderick Conway Morris goes with the flow

Getting around

Marco Polo International Airport.

Taxi: A road taxi from the airport to Piazzale Roma costs about €30. A water taxi will cost approximately €90.
Tourist information: The most helpful tourist office is the Venice Pavilion on the St Mark’s waterfront (, www.turismovenezia.it).
Ferry: Alilaguna ferries go from the airport to Piazza San Marco for €12 (or €25 for the fast, direct service on the Alilaguna Oro). Alternatively, buses cost €3 and stop at Piazzale Roma, opposite the train station. From here, hop on a vaporetto (water bus) to your hotel. One ticket costs €6. The 24-hour pass costs €15.

CASTELLO

This district, which has grown up around the Arsenale, is still a lively, predominantly working-class area.

Culture vultures – The 53rd Biennale (labiennale.org) is the largest ever, with 77 national pavilions in the Castello gardens, the Arsenale and other venues around the city, as well as 38 collateral events.

Must eat – On the narrow streets and canals between Castello gardens and the Arsenale are some good trattorias, where you can take a break and enjoy simple local dishes, such as bigoli in salsa (pasta in anchovy sauce). On the San Isepo canal by the gardens there’s Osteria al Ponte (930 Fondamenta San Isepo, ) and just around the corner is Dai Tosi Piccoli (738 Seco Marina, ). On the square opposite the imposing main gate of the Arsenale, with its pride of stone lions, is Da Paolo (2387 Campo del Arsenale, ). Go for spaghetti alle vongole, made Venetian-style with carpet clams.

Must drink – On the waterfront overlooking the lagoon is Angio Bar (2142 Riva San Biagio, Castello). Sip a glass of wine or traditional Venetian spritz al bitter (white wine, soda and Campari) while watching the sun set over the lagoon.

Shop til you drop – Pick up beautiful clothes and bags in silks, brocades, damasks and velvets at Banco n.10 (3478 Salizada Sant’Antonin), all made at the atelier in the women’s prison on Giudecca.

LIDO

Thomas Mann came here in 1911. The result was Death in Venice, which was made into a film in 1971 and was one of Luchino Visconti’s lushest productions, for which he used authentic period costumes.

Sleep soundly – You can still savour the belle epoque charms of Hotel Des Bains (17 Lungomare Marconi, , desbains.hotelinvenice.com, rooms from €350) where much of Visconti’s movie was filmed. The period decor has been lovingly maintained, but there’s also a stylish modern pool. The stunning maiolica-tiled façade and attractive interiors of Grande Albergo Ausonia & Hungaria (28 Gran Viale S.M. Elisabetta, , hotelhungaria.com, rooms from €149) have been recently restored to their former glory and this 1905 classic, on the boulevard running between the main Lido landing and the Adriatic shore, is welcoming visitors again. Suite 401 has a lovely view over the lagoon towards Piazza San Marco and the Campanile.

Must eat – At the beachside Caribe (58 Lungomare Marconi, ) there are fresh dishes for all tastes (try the lasagne), and also umbrellas and sunbeds for hire.

Dance the night away – Take to the seashore to dance under the stars at Ultima Spiaggia (23 Viale Umberto Klinger), which has live bands every Friday and offers reggae and funk and disco nights on Saturdays.

GIUDECCA

Throughout the third weekend of July, Venetians and visitors stream over the temporary pontoon bridge across Giudecca canal to Andrea Palladio’s Il Redentore church.

Sleep soundly – Hilton Molino Stucky (810 Giudecca, , molinostuckyhilton.com, rooms from €200) has panoramic views over the city. The Presidential Suite in the tower of the former flour mill is over two floors and has a private elevator, while the Skyline Rooftop Bar with its terrace is also popular with both hotel guests and visitors.

Culture vultures – On Saturday 18 July, the Festa del Redentore sees hundreds of boats take to the water and tables line the Giudecca waterfront for family feasts before the spectacular firework display round midnight. The festivities continue on Sunday with the Redentore regatta.

Must eat – The island has some of the friendliest family trattorias anywhere on the lagoon. On the waterfront you’ll find Al Redentor (205b Campo San Giacomo, ) and Bar La Palanca (448 Fondamenta del Ponte Piccolo, , open during lunchtimes only).

Compiled by Roderick Conway Morris