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Italy : Bologna - August 2009

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Despite claims to the contrary, Bologna doesn’t shut up shop during August. There’s still plenty going on, including a series of religious parades and classical music concerts, part of the annual celebrations of the Convento dell’Osservanza, held throughout the month. The large student population begins to return to the city at the same time, getting the local nightlife back into gear. And, with fewer tourists and locals about, you get the run of the city’s famed restaurants. Ed Regan casts a keen eye over the daily specials

Getting around

Guglielmo Marconi Airport is 6km outside the city

Bus: A shuttle bus runs from the airport to the train station every 15 minutes. The journey takes about 20 minutes and costs €5. Other buses serve Modena and Siena.
Taxi: The journey to the city centre takes about 20 to 30 minutes and costs about €18.
Tourist information: The main office is in Piazza Maggiore (9660).

VIA DELLE BELLE ARTI

In the heart of the city’s university district, which has been around since 1088, this lively little quarter is a great spot for bar hopping, as well as more cultural pursuits.

Culture vultures – Gen up on the classics with a visit to Pinacoteca Nazionale di Bologna (56 Via delle Belle Arti), where you’ll find works by Annibale Carracci, Domenichino and Raphael.

Must eat – Eating pizza in a foodie capital such as Bologna may seem a little naughty, but Trattoria Pizzeria Belle Arti dei Fratello Favaro (14 Via delle Belle Arti, tel. ) is a popular pit-stop. The Ecstasy, with cherry tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella and rocket, is a house favourite. Annamaria (17a Via delle Belle Arti, tel. ) is a relaxed trattoria complete with signed photos of famous diners on the walls. The pastas are superb, especially local icon tortelloni in brodo (tortellini in a clear broth).

Must drink – Two big favourites with the local student population are Bar Il Maggiolino (48 Via delle Belle Arti), where you can also enjoy a bite or two to eat, and Caffè Del Museo (58 Via Zamboni), which gets incredibly busy at peak times.

MANIFATTURA DELLE ARTI

This once run-down industrial area – whose name translates as ‘Factory of the Arts’ – is now rejuvenated and has been given a creative facelift.

Culture vultures – The huge Museo d’Arte Moderna di Bologna (14 Via Don Minzoni) is home to temporary exhibitions and a greatest hits permanent display, featuring artists such as René Magritte and Alberto Burri. With its photography exhibitions and bookshop, the excellent Cineteca (65 Via Azzo Gardino) is a must for film buffs, even if your Italian is a little rusty.

Must eat – For a traditional beltloosening Bolognese fare, Il Tartufo (34 Via del Porto, tel. ) is hard to beat. Try the rabbit with black truffles and leave room for the cream gelato with raspberries. La Pignatta (18 Viale Antonio Silvani, tel. ) is also good for local specialities, including garganelli with gorgonzola.

VIA PIELLA

Home to one of the ancient gateways to the city, Porta Govese, this street is nicely off the tourist-beaten track.

Must eat – Now approaching its 50th year, Trattoria Serghei (12 Via Piella, tel. ) is an old favourite and still great value. Feast on the perfect ossobuchi alla Bolognese (stewed veal shanks). A few doors up is Trattoria dal Biassanot (16 Via Piella, tel. ), with another typically redblooded menu, including house speciality boar with polenta.

Must drink – The usually hidden Reno canal can be seen from the back room of Caffè Opera e Tulipani (7 Via Alessandrini), where you can look out over a subterranean waterfall while working your way through the wine list.

IL QUADRILATERO

The oldest part of the city’s centro storico, this remains the focal point for Bolognese daily life with its array of shops and café culture.

Sleep soundly – Art Hotel Commercianti (11 Via de’Pignattari, , commercianti. hotelsbologna.it, rooms from €89) balances boutique chic with comfy classicism. The Capitano room, with its exposed beams and antique furniture, is the one to get.

Shop til you drop – Stock up on designer threads at Bang Bang 2 (5 Piazza della Mercanzia) and WP Store (4 Via Clavature), while Simoni (5 Via Drapperie) and Melega (14 Via Clavature) are slices of foodie heaven.

Compiled by Ed Regan