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Italy : Palermo - August 2009

Country Code: Dial for Italy

With its mix of historic influences and cultural sights clustered around the centre, Palermo is a vibrant place to visit whatever the time of year. But during this month, things really move up a gear as the Palermo Estate (until September) sees the city open up its squares and streets to musical shows and travelling theatres. If the heat gets too much, do as the locals do and decamp to the nearby Mondello Beach. Chicca Moretti joins the crowds

Getting around

Palermo International Airport

Bus: The Prestia e Comande bus service runs to and from Palermo. It takes about 50 minutes and tickets cost €5.
Train: A bus to the central station runs every half hour. Tickets cost €5.
Taxi: A taxi to the city centre costs about €40.
Tourist information: The main office is at 34 Piazza Castelnuovo (, palermo tourism.com).

QUATTRO CANTI

Palermo’s traditional heart, Quattro Canti (‘four corners’), is located at the intersection of Corso Vittorio Emanuele and Via Maqueda, putting it at the centre of the city’s impressive historic district.

Sleep soundly – The recently opened Hotel del Centro (72 Via Roma, , hoteldelcentro.it, rooms from €70) has a reputation for its high levels of comfort and the friendliness of the staff.

Culture vultures – Also known as the Royal Palace, the dazzling 12th-century Palazzo dei Normanni and Cappella Palatina (Piazza Indipendenza) are a treasure trove of Norman-Arab style, and the chapel is sure to impress.

Must eat – The grilled fish at Casa del Brodo (175 Corso Vittorio Emanuele, tel. ) is perfect for the hot sultry days of the summer. Otherwise, try the pasta with squid ink.

KALSA

Construction of this city within a city began in the ninth century and the area still has a distinctly Arab flavour and bags of medieval atmosphere. This district embodies more history than many whole cities, but is often overlooked by visitors.

Sleep soundly – The friendly welcome, high-ceilinged rooms and reasonable prices make Hotel Letizia (30 Via dei Bottai, tel. , hotelletizia.com, rooms from €100) a wonderful and affordable place to stay.

Culture vultures – The 14th-century Palazzo Steri (Piazza Marina), which is only open in the mornings, is in fact a castle built in 1307. It started life as a palace of the Chiaramonte family, one of the most powerful families in Sicily at the time, but after their fall from grace it became the seat of the Tribunal of the Inquisition in the 17th century.

Must eat – For Sicilian specialities made with fresh ingredients, head to La Cambusa (16 Piazza Marina, tel. , closed Mondays). It’s famous for its fresh fish, and is so reasonably priced that you can feast on a seafood lunch for two people, including wine, for less than €50. Try the delicious pesce spada alla ghiotta (swordfish cooked in an onion and tomato sauce).

MAQUEDA

Via Maqueda spans Palermo’s historic centre, as well as some of its 19thcentury districts, and includes the train station and one of Palermo’s best hotels.

Sleep soundly – Beautifully decorated, Hotel Gallery House (136 Via Mariano Stabile, , hotelgallery house.com, rooms from €90) comes with all mod cons, including WiFi, and a warm Sicilian welcome. Make sure you check for special offers, as there are some great deals here.

Culture vultures – Palermo’s grandest theatre, Teatro Politeama Garibaldi (Piazza Ruggero Settimo), was built in the late 19th century and has a beautiful palm garden that also features a music stage.

Shop til you drop – Explore the labyrinthine Vucciria food market and its maze of small streets to be transported back to a forgotten Sicily.

MONDELLO BEACH

Just 11km up the coast, the city’s favourite beach is a quick bus ride from the city (take the no. 806 bus from Viale delle Libertà).

Sleep soundly – A stroll away from the beach, the elegant Hotel Villa Esperia (53 Viale Margherita di Savoia, , hotelvillaesperia.it, rooms from €109) is set in an Italianate artdeco villa with 22 lovely, large rooms and an excellent restaurant.

Must eat – Bye Bye Blues (23 Via del Garofalo, ) is one of Sicily’s best restaurants, and has a seasonal menu that changes according to what’s fresh and available in the market.

Compiled by Chicca Moretti