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Lithuania : Vilnius - August 2009

Country Code: Dial 0 for Lithuania

As summer blazes on, Vilnius is abuzz with all manner of cultural happenings. The city’s Jewish quarter hosts the Klezmer Festival (25-29 August), when a trio of stages hold free concerts. This is also the month to see the city’s parks at their best or take a cooling waterfront stroll along River Neris. Robin McKelvie enjoys a final alus (beer) of the summer

Getting around

Vilnius International Airport

Bus: The no. 1 bus goes to the central train station every 10–15 minutes. Tickets bought onboard cost €0,40/LTL 1.40.
Train: A fast train leaves every hour from the airport between 6am and 9pm and takes 10 minutes to get to the central station.
Taxi: A taxi from the airport to the city centre takes about 15 minutes and should cost €11,60/LTL 40
Tourist information: The main tourist office is at 22 Vilniaus Gatve ( 0, vilniustourism. lt).

OLD TOWN

Vilnius’s old town – all soaring church spires and winding cobbled lanes – is full of cafés, bars and restaurants.

Sleep soundly – Right in the heart of the old town, Ramada Vilnius (2 Subaciaus Gatve 5, ramada vilnius.lt, rooms from €130/ LTL 449) has an excellent restaurant and a hot tub in its bath house.

Culture vultures – Vilnius Picture Gallery (4 Didzioji Gatve) showcases the best of Lithuanian art in the Chodkeviciai Palace, delving back as far as the 16th century. The collection is rotated every year, so even if you have been before, there’s plenty of reasons to go back for more.

Must eat – Do fine dining Lithuanian style at Stikliai (7 Gaono Gatve, 0), an atmospheric upscale retreat. Or save some cash and enjoy traditional food such as cepelinai (dumplings stuffed with meat) on a budget at Forto Dvaras (16 Pilies Gatve, 0).

Must drink – Brodvejus (4 Mesiniu Gatve) is fun, unpretentious and perennially popular. A party place that pretends to be nothing more or less, it stages regular live music, too.

Shop til you drop – Don’t be fooled by the name – the souvenir market (Pilies Gatve), as it’s known by locals, is the perfect place to stock up on Lithuanian handicrafts as opposed to tourist tat. All sorts of artwork is on sale here, most of it good quality.

GEDIMINO

The city’s main thoroughfare is undergoing something of a renaissance at the moment, with an influx of designer shops, widened pavements and a flurry of new bars and restaurants.

Must eat – Restaurants don’t get any more lavish and old world than Neringa (23 Gedimino, 8). Delve back to Soviet days here with dishes such as potato pancakes with salted salmon or red caviar, then pop into its 60s-inspired Vilnius Bar. Otherwise, you could save some cash and enjoy the wallet-friendly classic French cooking at Garden Brasserie (16 Gedimino, 0). The steak is excellent.

Must drink – Avilys (5 Gedimino) brews its own delicious beers. The smell is enough to draw in beer-lovers, and you can see some of the brewing gear strategically placed around the bar area.

Dance the night away – Absinth Code (46 Gedimino) attracts a ribald crowd with its mix of upfront house and mainstream pop.

CITY CENTRE

The city centre runs towards and along River Neris, with waterfront paths, wide boulevards and parks to laze in.

Sleep soundly – Dvaras Hotel (3 Tilto Gatve, 0, dvaras.lt, rooms from €100/LTL 345) is a luxurious little oasis with just eight rooms that’s still something of a local secret. The décor is low-key and traditionally Lithuanian.

Culture vultures – Vilnius is European Capital of Culture 2009. As part of Cinema in the City, the Concert and Sport Palace (1 Rinktines Gatve) is staging the catchily named Vanguard Cinema Works and City Documentaries from 5-6 August. From 12-13 August, the same venue hosts the similarly snappy Review of Arturas Barisas and Political Documentaries.

Must eat – Tores (40 Uzupio Gatve, 9) combines the best bits of a wine bar and restaurant to make for a relaxed escape. For arguably the best curry in Lithuania, head to Sue’s Indian Raja (3 Odminiu Gatve, 8).

Must drink – Sports devotees can savour the action on the screens at All Stars Sports Bar (25 Konstitucijos). Most big football matches are shown here, but it’s worth checking out the basketball too – it’s a local obsession.

Dance the night away – Clubbers should make a beeline for Gravity (16 J Jasinskio Gatve), a temple of progressive house. Local DJs and international talent man the decks of this heaving club.

Compiled by Robin McKelvie