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Spain : Barcelona - September 2009

Country Code: Dial for Spain

To celebrate the last of the summer sun and the beginning of autumn, Barcelona’s biggest party of the year, La Mercè 09, hits the streets from 23 to 27 September (see bcn.es for more details). You’d be a fool to miss it, says Judy Thomson

Getting around

El Prat

Bus: The nearest airport is El Prat Airport, about 12km from the city.

GOTHIC QUARTER

In the core of the old town, the gothic quarter’s medieval lanes and majestic squares form the perfect backdrop for La Mercè festivities, from dancing gegants (giants) to awesome castells (nine level-high human towers).

Sleep soundly – Escape the throngs at NH Duc de la Victoria (15 Duc de la Victoria, tel. , nh-hotels. com, rooms from €135), situated in a quiet pedestrian street, or the everpopular El Jardí (1 Plaça Sant Josep Oriol, tel. , hoteljardibarcelona. com, rooms from €65). Ask for a room with a view of Santa Maria del Pi, if you can cope with revellers.

Culture vultures – Join the excited crowds taunting devils and dragons at the Correfoc on 26 September or catch Baba Zula playing oriental dub from Istanbul in Plaça Sant Jaume.

Must drink – The terrace of Bar del Pi (1 Plaça Sant Josep Oriol) is perfect for enjoying a cup of coffee in the morning sun or a glass or two of cool beer in the evening. But if you want to mingle with the locals, you’re better off getting a seat at the bar.

Shop til you drop – Pick up works of art and pieces of jewellery in the pretty street Petritxol, although your budget might not stretch to the works in Sala Parés (5 Petritxol), one of the city’s oldest galleries. Tiny, tasteful boutique Como Agua de Mayo (17 Banys Nous) and Catalan success story Custo (2 Plaça del Pi) both stock Spanish designers such as Ailanto.

LA RAMBLA

This famed boulevard remains one of the best shows in town and an arterial route in La Mercè festivities.

Sleep soundly – For a privileged view of Gaudí’s Palau Güell, request a room at the front of Hotel Gaudí (12 Nou de la Rambla, tel. , hotelgaudi. es, rooms from €130). The rooms here are simple but chic, done out in pale wood and neutral colours.

Culture vultures – Pop into the information centre at Palau de la Virreina (99 La Rambla) to glimpse the mythical beasts who’ll parade in La Mercè. You can pick up a full fiesta programme here, plus details on all cultural events happening this month.

Must eat – Enjoy the buzz of La Rambla from the attractive roof terrace at Attic (120 La Rambla, tel. ). Tuck into modern Mediterranean dishes such as bombones de foie con manzana (foie gras with apple) or brochetta de langostinas (prawn brochette).

EIXAMPLE

As it’s the Year of Cerdà, held in honour of the town planner who designed this magnificent district 150 years ago, part of La Mercè will be celebrated here.

Culture vultures – Look out for spectacular street theatre shows taking place in Eixample’s elegant avenues from 23-27 September. Australian theatre company Strange Fruit’s show The Spheres promises to be a highlight. If you miss it, the spectacle of Gaudí’s Casa Batlló (43 Passeig de Gràcia) will make up for it.

Must eat – For the total Gaudí experience – at a price – head to Casa Calvet (48 Casp, tel. ), located in a magnificent former textile office designed by the maestro. The menu changes with the seasons, but the rabbit in mustard sauce with vegetable lasagne is a perennial hit.

Must drink – The aptly named Dry Martini (162-166 Aribau) is one of the best places in town to sip one.

PEDRALBES

This uptown residential district with trimmed lawns and designer swimming pools is a breath of fresh air. It’s easy to reach by bus or train from Plaça Catalunya

Culture vultures – An antidote to the crazed pace of the city centre, the peaceful Monestir de Pedralbes (9 Baixada del Monestir) is famed for its three-tiered gothic cloisters. Along with most of Barcelona’s municipal museums, it’s now open for free from 3pm on Sundays.

Must eat – Hidden in a large garden is charming El Jardí de l’Abadessa (26 Abadessa d’Olzet, tel. ). It serves light Mediterranean dishes and is a great place to relax with a glass of cava in hand.



Compiled by Judy Thomson

Previous issues for Barcelona
 
   
Whilst every effort is made to ensure accuracy,
please confirm event/venue details in advance.



 

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