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France : Marseille - September 2009

Country Code: Dial for France

Marseille takes to the waves this month for Septembre en Mer (officedelamer.com), a celebration of the city’s enduring connection to the sea. There’s plenty to do, from guided walks to voyages on a historic barque and sunset kayak trips to the Frioul islands. Neville Walker finds his sea legs

Getting around

Marseille-Provence

Bus: A shuttle bus connects the airport with the centre of Marseille every 20 minutes or so, and the journey takes between 25 and 30 minutes. Tickets cost €8,50.
Taxi: A taxi to the centre of Marseille from the airport costs about €40 during the day and €50 at night. The journey takes around 30 minutes.
Tourist information: The main office can be found at 4 La Canebière, close to Vieux Port (tel. , www.marseilletourisme.com).

VIEUX PORT AND LE PANIER

From the bustle of the early morning fish market to the illumination every evening of its major landmarks, there’s always something going on around Marseille’s yacht-filled harbour. Rising above it on the north side is Le Panier, the city’s hilly and atmospheric old quarter.

Sleep soundly – Tasteful colours and a simple but contemporary Provençal look ensure the rooms at the longestablished Hotel Alizé (35 Quai des Belges, tel. , alize-hotel. com, rooms from €78) remain some of the nicest overlooking Vieux Port. And they come complete with Wi-Fi, flatscreen TVs and exposed natural stone. Try to bag a room with a harbour view – a relative snip at €96.

Culture vultures – Climb Le Panier’s steep streets to reach Vieille Charité (2 Rue de la Charité), a beautiful 17thcentury workhouse that’s currently hosting rare and precious works from Marseille’s leading art galleries: Musée des Beaux-Arts, Musée Cantini and Musée d’Art Contemporain (MAC).

Must eat – Eating at Marseille’s most atmospheric literary hangout needn’t break the bank. Go for the hearty, good-value lunchtime salads in the salon de thé at Les Arcenaulx (25 Cours d’Estienne d’Orves, tel. ).

THE CORNICHE AND BORÉLY

Marseille’s glorious coast road sweeps south from Vieux Port, past rocky headlands and the picturesque fishing harbour of Anse des Auffes, before reaching the broad sands and bubbling nightlife of Plages du Prado.

Sleep soundly – Get into September’s nautical spirit at Hotel-Restaurant Le Rhul (269 Corniche JF Kennedy, tel. , bouillabaissemarseille. com, rooms from €90), which has an enviable location on the Corniche, sea views from its rooms and a respected restaurant specialising in bouillabaisse.

Culture vultures – The sky, not the sea, is the backdrop for the fabulous kites on display at the free Fête du Vent (mairie-marseille.fr). To see them, head to Parc Balnéaire du Prado from 16-20 September.

Must eat – Fuel up for a night by the sea at chic El Cariño (148 Avenue Pierre Mendès France, tel. ), where the towering tapas creations are as good-looking as the customers. Suppress your post-cocktail pangs with a stop at the seafront stand selling churros (fried dough strips sprinkled in sugar), located opposite Avenue du Prado.

Must drink – On warm September nights, the people of Marseille flock to the open terraces of Escale Borély, alongside Plages du Prado. Sip cocktails in style at La Voile (148 Avenue Pierre Mendès France).

LE PLATEAU

The area dubbed around Cours Julien and Place Jean-Jaurès, dubbed Le Plateau, is one of the most tempting spots in Marseille to while away the day. Come here for an arty, bohemian vibe, off-beat shopping and plenty of good places to eat and drink.

Culture vultures – Marseille’s most alternative neighbourhood takes to the streets on 19-20 September for Festival du Plateau (coursjulien. marsnet.org). The action takes place on Cours Julien. Expect everything from live reggae and Brazilian bands to theatre performances and contemporary art.

Must eat – Salads, charcuterie and ice creams come with a side order of culture at Le Thé Dans l’Encrier (52 Cours Julien, tel. ), a delightfully laid-back restaurant and salon de thé where art fills the walls and plush upholstered divans spill on to the sunny street outside.

Shop til you drop – Pick up a cheap sun hat or a pair of flip-flops at the buzzy La Plaine market on Place Jean-Jaurès on Saturday mornings, then browse the altogether classier women’s fashions at Filles de Lune (77 Cours Julien).

Compiled by Neville Walker